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Got it!!! The amount of effort this took to find what was ultimately very simple is sooo frustrating. Thanks so much for everyone that helped me out with this! As I mentioned above the brown 4 wire connector would make the headlights come off and on with just the key on. So I started...

I have a 2005 NSX that already has keyless. I don't like the look of the FOB I want light flash on lock / unlock and I want to be able to remotely unlock the trunk Will your system work with my setup and allow for those additions?

Yes. Test light wire to battery positive post....then I used the pointed test in to light up when it received ground. And it did from both the head light switch and just the key to on. Also agreed about it being anywhere to tap in. Agreed. That makes sense. Agreed... I just don't know that...

Not sure if this is relevant or not...but there is a brown 4 pin connector in the passenger floor board If I disconnect it 100% normal functionality is restored but critical power to my Haltech and a lot of the rest of the car is lost Not sure if this helps in the the possible location process

Also the original owner of the car found the reciept of the shop that did the work. I called them today and they still had notes on the install but the tech was no longer there. Their notes said something to the effect of: Customer came in wanting DRL, did wiring inspection and installed fused...

Smart to make sure we are all on the same. This is the relay that I think is the high beam...when removed...high beams turn off. Removing it changes none of the other functions in any of the key states. #2 Verified....accessory = no headlights automatically coming on (low or high) zero...

Wild Turkey, awesome logical breakdown—thanks so much for taking the time to do this! To answer the question above, I pulled the headlight low beam relay. Key out: Side markers work, high beams work, but low beams don’t. However, when I switch the low beams on, pin #2 goes to ground (tested...

Been testing this AM and they have 100% used this point to trigger Whats interesting is that the relay clicks when the key is off and arms that relay....but in the key on position the lights are already only and the relay still clicks when I arm it with the switch.

So I was able to look around in the driverside footwell area again at what I believe are C416 and C243 and nothing. Pretty sure this is C416 and I didn't see anything above or behind the fuse box

Great idea...and I will look into that ASAP Also thanks so much for taking the time to post the sections of the manual and help think through all of this!

Correct...just the low beams So to make sure I am understanding you correctly: Pin 2 (Circled in Red) is getting a bonus ground sent to it in order to arm that relay and turn on the low beams? AND That bonus ground is occurring on the red blue wire before the head light diode on the...

Old Guy...thanks for the very detailed write up! Unfortunately I made a mistake in my original description of the problem. I updated the first post to reflect this oversite: Current Behavior: No Key: All lighting functions operate normally—I have full control over low beams, high beams, and...

From using this: https://www.startmycar.com/us/acura/nsx/info/fusebox/2005 and the FSM There does not appear to be On the startmycar.com diagram I think you are referring to locations 13 & U2 Those both appear empty on my car.

Thanks helping point me in the right direction. When you say "DRL Fixtures" can you give me some additional clarity. Do you mean the actual DRL plugs at the front of the car? (borrowed this pic from Honcho)

I've spent hours searching forums, trying to figure out how my DRLs were wired, but I just can't seem to find the answer. Here’s what I know so far: Vehicle Details: 2005 Acura NSX (originally a U.S.-spec car) Imported to Canada, where a previous owner had DRLs installed to meet legal...

Awesome....thanks for the help everyone!

so that is the correct part?

I've removed the interior of my NSX for sound deadening, a stereo upgrade, and general cleanup. During the process, I accidentally broke the part indicated by the red arrows. (not my car...just a generic pic) Its a vent cover that got cracked. I think its this part number: Acura...

Yes Paid for in full now

Continuing the discussion on my proposed changes, there are two categories: Fluid and Electrical. For now, let’s set aside the radiator flow direction topic. I still believe top-down is better, but I’m not certain. Even if it proves to be better, I concede it will likely only offer a small...

Agreed. While the dyno is a useful tool, it doesn’t perfectly replicate real-world conditions. I don’t think it has zero correlation, but I strongly believe in testing systems in the actual environment they’ll be used in. Also Agreed. My '91 Turbo has a vented hood, but on my 2005, I’ll likely...

The community can "pile on" as much as it likes. Picture yourself in an airplane, with a crowd (forum) on the ground shouting up at you, “Your ideas are flawed! It’ll never fly!”—how much weight would their words really carry? The key point everyone seems to have overlooked is: I am doing this...

That would be interesting to see! I’d also like to mount additional sensors to monitor temperatures at multiple points throughout the system for a better understanding of what’s happening in both scenarios.

I looked into some used ones, but the prices seemed too high. I called PWR, and they were very helpful and pleasant to talk with. They are willing to either make one of the older models for me or modify it however I want. However, it’s not cheap. Their company policy is that any custom work...

On a somewhat related note, I think this radiator might be a good upgrade for the project. It's very close to the spec of the NSX radiator but is thicker, dual-pass, and comes with fans and a shroud, all at a lower cost. I'll cut off the fill neck, weld it shut, add pegs to use the OEM...