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The alternator on my 97 NSX (~70k miles) started whirring really badly today, so it sounds like I have 2 main options: Purchase a new OEM unit Have my existing one rebuilt Per other threads I've read, it sounds like sourcing a new unit has been very difficult for folks recently so I'm not even...

https://www.caranddriver.com/features/a26215498/acura-nsx-anniversary-30-years/ Amazing (and humbling) how journalists still wax poetic about the original NSX.

So I was driving on a backroad today when suddenly the car just died on me. At first, I was accelerating as normal, and then the car hit a wall at 6k - almost like a fuel cutoff. Then, 30 seconds later the engine just shut off on me and both the oil pressure and battery warning lights started...

The topic of Classic Car plates recently came up and I decided to do some research. Turns out that in CT, if your car has Classic Car plates the local assessor can only value the car up to $500 when determining property tax obligations. Based on the requirements (see here), it would appear...

I'm currently running AD08Rs at all 4 corners, but I need new rear tires for this season. Looking at Tire Rack, I just saw that Yokohama must have discontinued the AD08R in the size I need (255/35/18). Any idea what other comparable tire options I have? I'm leaning towards the Dunlop Direzza...

I'm considering swapping in some aftermarket seats for a few reasons: 1) OEM seats, while comfortable, don't offer enough side bolstering 2) OEM seat sits too high for my taste 3) Weight savings However, my one stipulation is that the seat back has to recline, so no buckets! I am 6ft, 185lbs...

With spring (more or less) here, my NSX will finally be coming out of hibernation in the next few weeks. That means prepping her for driving, which this year mainly revolves around fluid changes. While an oil change is an obvious must, I'm a bit less clear on the other essential fluids...

**Both SOLD** I am selling my Pride V2 with thick-walled tips and Pride resonated test pipes. Both pieces are in excellent condition and have less than 3k miles on them. I believe Pride only made a handful of V2s with the thick-walled tips, so it's a relatively rare version. I also...

I wanted to ask Mark a few questions, but I noticed he hasn't posted in a while and the few posts he has made are sporadic. I also PMed him, but haven't heard anything back. Is Pride Exhaust still in business?

I've noticed a lot of used BBSC kits up for sale, wondering what people's thoughts were on them. As I understand, they weren't the most reliable setup when they first came out but that was largely due to a lack of tuning options. Now that we have AEM solutions available, is running this kit...

Wasn't sure where to post this since there isn't a subforum for brakes... What pads are you guys running on the street? Last year, I swapped for a set of StopTech Street Performance pads up front, OEM pads in the rear and honestly I'm not a huge fan. They have decent feel and generate almost...

http://www.automobilemag.com/reviews/driven/1602-driving-the-original-acura-nsx-at-25-even-better-than-you-remember/ Pretty cool that NSXPO got this exposure, tons of pics too. One of these days, I'll make it out there!

My EPS is dead and I think it might be related to my EPS module (or "brain") which is the metal box located in the passenger footwell. I have had the steering rack rebuilt by d1 guy and BrianK attempted to fix my EPS brain (for a code 22), but no luck so far. Thinking the EPS brain is dead, so...

Hi guys, So I'm having issues with my EPS unit. Specifically, I have a code 22 that BrianK's fix did not resolve. My concern is that my EPS brain is dead, but I can't be sure until I test another one that works. Is there anyone willing to meet at my tech's shop in Milford, CT to help me...

My EPS light came on and I'm trying to diagnose the problem. I downloaded the manual off the NSX Wiki, but it's missing page 17-36 which lists the EPS trouble codes. Can someone e-mail it to me at dayta01@hotmail.com? To confirim, I originally pulled a code 6. Thanks.

I just replaced my pads/rotors with the following setup: Front Pads: StopTech Street Performance Rotors: Centric (cross-drilled by R1 Concepts) Rear Pads: OEM Rotors: Centric (cross-drilled by R1 Concepts) Fluid Motul RBF-600 I have about 200-300 street-driven miles on the setup right now...

I had Matt (d1 guy) rebuild my EPS rack recently because the off-center "knock" was getting worse. He provided a very quick turnaround and excellent communication. I had no troubles getting a response from him almost immediately. In terms of the service itself...one word, WOW! The car feels...

For those of you who are substantially lowered, what kind of rear camber settings can you dial in? Currently, I'm at a zero finger wheel gap at all 4 corners (4-4.5" ground clearance from ground to jack tabs) and the lowest I can go is -3.8 degrees which I think is way too much for a street...

I was recently able to source a pair of Model 5s in 18s so I have my rear 17s for sale. They are 17x9, +40. No chips, bends, or cracks. Recently powdercoated crushed metallic silver. Center caps were taken off to be cleaned separately but will be included with sale. What I think is...

Are there any guys out there with StopTech BBKs who have measured the difference in weight between the StopTech and OEM components (calipers and rotors)? Aside from the obvious advantages in braking over OEM, I'm curious to know how much unsprung weight is saved and how much it could...

This is the longest I've ever stored a car without driving it (5 months). Aside from the basic checks and visual inspections (battery voltage, checking hoses for leaks, tire pressures, etc) is there anything I should be concerned with?

I was looking at possibly picking up a new set of wheels this season and the SSR Professor SP3s caught my eye. However, as they are 3-piece wheels I know they typically come only with a deep lip. Down the road, I was also thinking about going with a full StopTech BBK setup front and rear...

I have a 1997 NA2 6-speed and I've been toying with the idea of going turbo, which in turn has necessitated research into clutch upgrades. I plan to stick with the stock block so my power goals are modest (400whp, 325wtq). The car will also be street driven - no hard launches, mostly backroads...

Regarding adjustable sway bar settings, I notice that the majority of recommendations on here are to have the front bar at full stiff and the rear bar (if any) at full loose. I'm not a suspension guru, but based on what I've read and personal limited experience, I would think that would...

I'm looking to gear up for a stereo build in the spring and I want to install tweeters in the plastic triangular pieces at the corner of the A-pillar and door. Per the diagram below, I'm thinking it is #8 and #19 (72241-SL0-003ZA, 72281-SL0-003ZA). However, I can't tell if that's the...