door panel help

hi all, putting my driver's door panel back on but don't know where these 2 connectors go (pictured in my hands)? also, interior door handle not able to open door now. not sure if related? tia

Well the big brown one goes to the door speaker, its been a while but pretty sure the little clear/brown goes to the trunk button, The other must then go to your courtesy lite in the door. The interior handle pull opens the door via that blue tipped cable that sits in a clip on the door handle. If its not in the same slot in the clip it came out of it might not open the door. Theres a small 2-pin clear coming out the main bundle that goes to the elect door lock switch.

bullithollywood said:

Well the big brown one goes to the door speaker, its been a while but pretty sure the little clear/brown goes to the trunk button, The other must then go to your courtesy lite in the door. The interior handle pull opens the door via that blue tipped cable that sits in a clip on the door handle. If its not in the same slot in the clip it came out of it might not open the door. Theres a small 2-pin clear coming out the main bundle that goes to the elect door lock switch.

Click to expand...

thanks for the reply! figured it out.
the clear one goes to the courtesy light. trunk button is a smaller vertical connector.
appreciate the help!

Welcome to Prime @iamkimu and congrats on getting the fastest color! Congrats on getting that handle trim out - that's a bugger the 1st time. I assume you've got everything working correctly now. As @bullithollywood noted, the interior door handle activates the latch via the cable with the blue plastic end with 3 grooves, 72132-SL0-003, "Cable, Inside Handle". Three things to note:

1. After the barrel terminus is inserted in its location in the handle, the 3-groove plastic connector clips into the handle assembly. It's important to put it back in the correct location, usually the middle groove, if you can remember where it came out of, but it can be adjusted if the cable has stretched.
2. You also need to feed the cable into the handle correctly so that when it's attached, the cable is not kinked by running "behind" the assembly, or between the assembly and the door panel when the assembly is reattached with the 4 black and 4 gold screws. [edit] (black at front, gold at back)
3. Your cable appears to be frayed/broken and could jam shortly. If you haven't already reassembled the door, I'd look into replacing it.

(Posting your NSX particulars in your sig will help Primer's offer year or model specific advice.)

Wild Turkey said:

-----

1. ----- and the door panel when the assembly is reattached with the 4 black and 4 gold screws. (black at front, gold at back)
2. ---------------

Click to expand...

The other way round please.
Gold at the front, black at the rear.

Kaz

Hey @Kaz-kzukNA1 , can you explain this to me? You're saying the gold metalic screws go at the front in the black plastic while the black screws screw into the metallic portion at the back? I must say that looks rather odd, but I have seen it once before. [Edit: Agree with @Kaz-kzukNA1 . The gold screws have a shoulder to prevent overtightening on the plastic.]

Personally, I'm wondering if it matters much because the screws are the same size (#5) and almost identical looking at them, and the plastic inserts in the door that they screw into are the same part #. It was my assumption that the difference was only cosmetic, matching the colors of the screws to the material they're securing. If either screw had better holding power, why not do all 8 the same since they're hidden anyway? My 1995 came with the black screws at the front matching the black portion of the handle assembly, but my 2001 had one door done each way after the window tinting was installed. Looking at the pics in the service manual link below, they all look the same. So the way I have mine here is incorrect?


[edit] We discussed this before and this has now been corrected as well.

Wild Turkey said:

Welcome to Prime @iamkimu and congrats on getting the fastest color! Congrats on getting that handle trim out - that's a bugger the 1st time. I assume you've got everything working correctly now. As @bullithollywood noted, the interior door handle activates the latch via the cable with the blue plastic end with 3 grooves, 72132-SL0-003, "Cable, Inside Handle". Three things to note:

1. After the barrel terminus is inserted in its location in the handle, the 3-groove plastic connector clips into the handle assembly. It's important to put it back in the correct location, usually the middle groove, if you can remember where it came out of, but it can be adjusted if the cable has stretched.
2. You also need to feed the cable into the handle correctly so that when it's attached, the cable is not kinked by running "behind" the assembly, or between the assembly and the door panel when the assembly is reattached with the 4 black and 4 gold screws. (black at front, gold at back)
3. Your cable appears to be frayed/broken and could jam shortly. If you haven't already reassembled the door, I'd look into replacing it.

1991-2005 Acura NSX Cable, Inside Handle 72132-SL0-003 | OEMAcuraPart

1991-2005 Acura NSX part # 72132-SL0-003 - Cable, Inside Handle

www.oemacuraparts.com

(Posting your NSX particulars in your sig will help Primer's offer year or model specific advice.)

Click to expand...

thanks wild turkey, appreciate the welcome!
I'll try the middle groove again to see if that helps.

Kaz has it correct: gold in front, and black in back.

Using the factory exploded parts diagram, the relative position of the screw fasteners indicates 90131-SL0-000 (5x14mm) in front and 93903-45380 (5x16mm) in back. An image search shows that 93903-45380 is a black oxide screw.

The yellow receiver grommet is p/n: 90662-SB2-003

Very interesting that the "SL0" screw is unique to the NSX.

And I'll update my posts, I referred back to photos I took back in 2000 of my vehicle and *assumed*.

Do I change them now or just leave them? The screws look similar and are #5 self-tapping, but if the 16 mm are too long, is there something to hit in the window mechanism behind? They've been that way for 5 years in my 1995, so I'm tempted to leave them, but my OCD wants everything correc. Argghhhh!

Wild Turkey said:

Do I change them now or just leave them? The screws look similar and are #5 self-tapping, but if the 16 mm are too long, is there something to hit in the window mechanism behind? They've been that way for 5 years in my 1995, so I'm tempted to leave them, but my OCD wants everything correc. Argghhhh!

Click to expand...

Change them. The reason for the order is that the gold screws have a metal shoulder on them that supports the plastic mounting holes. It helps prevent the plastic housing from developing cracks as the handle is flexed over and over from use and installation. A new handle is $$$$.

Corrected now. Here's a picture of the 2 screws showing the screws side by side, with the shoulder on the gold screws to prevent overtightening them on the plastic and crushing it. So the difference is the shoulder, not the length of the screws. The screws are actually the same length, but the shoulder ones are labelled as shorter because they're measured from the shoulder? I'm embarrassed that I didn't see this earlier. This shoulder is unneeded on the back 4 screws that screw into metal, and could even prevent the screws from tightening enough on the metal portion of the handle. Interestingly, I would highlight that these "shoulders" are less likely to be effective since the screw is being tightened into a plastic insert, and not metal, and thus can still be overtightened if overly enthusiastic.

Note that the threads are pretty much the same, so you won't wreck the plastic insert by putting them in wrong. Mine still had lots of purchase when reinstalling them correctly.