engine compartment fan

Joined
21 November 2001
Messages
67
My car was missing an engine compartment fan (next to rideside airscoop) when I purchased it. Will my engine overheat without it? I lost contact with the owner.
 
Most cars don't have one and are fine.At first the designers thought they needed it but were wrong.
 
My car is in the shop now having it installed. It cost me $680.00 for the fan, shroud, and other related hardware.
 
19812-PR7-A02 Cooling Motor $269.95
90041-PG6-004 Hex Nut 5mm $2.50
19813-PR7-A02 Cooling Fan $46.34
90403-PA0-004 Washer $2.90
19815-PR7-A00 Shroud $282.21
36619-PC6-004 Rubber Mount $2.41 (3 needed)
90501-PR7-A00 Collar $4.28 (3 needed)
93403-06020-05 Bolt Washer $0.85
93404-06032-04 Bolt washer $0.85 (2 needed)
93893-04012-05 Screw Washer $0.66 (3 needed)
32175-647-920 Harness Clip $4.59
93404-06040-04 Bolt Washer $0.85
 
I should add that the electrical connection points need to be soldered, not simply plugged-in to the car's harness.
 
Nick - It is true, but I'm not sure exactly which year they dropped it so I don't know where to list it in the changes-by-year list.


[This message has been edited by Lud (edited 25 August 2002).]
 
Thanks Lud

I also saw that that the fan "delete" information was listed in the CompTech supercharger installation manual.
 
It's on my 94, so it has to be at least after 94 that it was deleted.

Has anyone else ever noticed that it seems the manufacturer spends the most time and detail on the first production model. After that they start removing non essentials one by one. I noticed this on my 94 & 98 integra. It seamed the way the 98 was put together was cheaper than the 94.

[This message has been edited by nsxxtreme (edited 25 August 2002).]
 
I believe it was eliminated in '95 when the NSX-T was introduced, allegedly because Honda decided it wasn't necessary.
 
Keep the fan.....only as an external oil cooler gizmo. I hope to have this project completed in time for NSXPO to show-n-tell.
 
FYI- The unit gets wired to the coolant temperature and is set for 190 degrees.
 
I've never seen this fan operate before until just recently. Our local chapter was on a mountain run and we stopped for a break. It was hot that day and we ran our cars hard. A friend of mine actually saw his fan working for the first time! I had to take a picture.
smile.gif

http://northwest.nsxca.org/02aJuly4.html

Vytas
 
Install fan, create harness, install relay, and test...$360.00

1 part number 39794-SE0-003 Relay Assy....$35.50

5 Electrical Connectors @ $0.75

TOTAL INSTALLATION BT ACURA: $398.00 +tax

The fact that he told me the thing had to be soldered in, and then he charges me for 5 self-tapping connectors...PRICELESS!
 
Originally posted by Vytas:
A friend of mine actually saw his fan working for the first time!
smile.gif


Vytas


Same here,

Had a cooling issue the other day, and it was the first time in 2,5 years i did see mine running.
 
Originally posted by AndyVecsey:
Keep the fan.....only as an external oil cooler gizmo. I hope to have this project completed in time for NSXPO to show-n-tell.


Hi Andy,

I used the size of 3"x11". And I also added accusump tap into the line.
If I have to do it over again, I would use Mocal cooler.

Dan uses a voltage riser to speedup the fan. I don't. Make sure you seal the surrounding of the cooler so the fan can work effectively. ABS plastic in /18" thickness works well for this. The plastic is very durable and easy to work with.

Have you found a sandwich adapter that will fit no problem?


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MAJORSTONER, what the heck are you doing to your car? Are you installing a fan on an earlier NSX which had it removed? Or are you installing it on a later NSX that never had it (if so, why?) ?

With all the references to cutting/splicing/soldering, it sounds like you are installing it in a later NSX that doesn't have the wire harness for the original fan.
 
Have you found a sandwich adapter that will fit no problem?

No. The ones I found were either (a) cast aluminum, prone to cracking IMO (b) had 3/8" taps, I want 1/2" (c) were too thick and the OEM oil filter would've hit the k-brace.

I opted to go with machined billet adapters that allow for remote oil filter mounting. In the plumbing going from and to the engine, I'll insert the cooler. There are two coolers I am interested in - both by B&M. The smaller of the two I think will fit behind the RR wheel well and would need the factory engine bay fan. A larger one has a fan with it; however, mounting locations become more challenging.
 
Originally posted by AndyVecsey:
Have you found a sandwich adapter that will fit no problem?

No. The ones I found were either (a) cast aluminum, prone to cracking IMO (b) had 3/8" taps, I want 1/2" (c) were too thick and the OEM oil filter would've hit the k-brace.

I opted to go with machined billet adapters that allow for remote oil filter mounting. In the plumbing going from and to the engine, I'll insert the cooler. There are two coolers I am interested in - both by B&M. The smaller of the two I think will fit behind the RR wheel well and would need the factory engine bay fan. A larger one has a fan with it; however, mounting locations become more challenging.


I uses the 1/2" billet aluminum sandwich. But I'm lucky that Dan live nearby and can machine it so it fits. Otherwise the machining take some creativity and will cost quite a bit.

Where do you mount the remote oil filter?

Dan uses Setrab cooler, dual pass, and significantly bigger than mine.




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For pure cooling power, wouldn't a functional scoop cool the engine more than a fan blowing out?

Take for example the SOS Cantrell Scoop, with the design inverted to work on the other side of the car. This would funnel in a good deal of cold air to the engine bay. I think there are some people working on such a product. This would have value for supercharger owners. My engine bay gets much hotter now than it did N/A.
 
For pure cooling power, wouldn't a functional scoop cool the engine more than a fan blowing out?

Yes, absolutely. I have a fan on my work bench and although I do not know in which direction the OEM fan blows - into the engine bay or out of the engine bay - that really doesn't matter for my application. Because the fan is driven by a DC motor, simply reversing the wires will reverse the fan rotation. Sig - what leads you to think the fan blows out? Not looking at a wiring diagram, I would think the fan would suck air in via the side scoop. That way you don't have external vs internal air presssure cancellation.

Before my conjured up external oil cooler project, I was gonna ask Cantrell if he could make a reverse mold scoop for the passenger side of the car. As Sig points out, this is an excellent idea. I abandoned it for now, because if I go with the small cooler, the reverse Cantrell wont't fit. However, if I do not use that space...... Say, I do have a Cantrell scoop for the driver's side. Maybe if I install it backwards, it will fit the opposite side of the car.
tongue.gif
 
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