I’ve had the factory keyless for over a year now and was frustrated at the fact that it didn’t flash the lights with lock/unlock and it didn’t remote pop the trunk. After a ton of research it seemed like going aftermarket as the only option. However, I wanted to be able to use the factory alarm. I also wanted to be able to plug in using the factory connector.
There were a lot of threads on Prime with lots of good info but nothing definitive. With a lot of help from @drew and @Old Guy , I was finally able to integrate an aftermarket keyless entry system using the factory keyless connector. This set up also arms and disarms the factory alarm. Keep in mind this was done on my 99. I believe it should be the same for 93-03.
*EDIT* see post#9 for diagram if you have a 91 or 92
Materials Needed:
1 Aftermarket Keyless Entry system
2 1N4001 Diodes
Optional:
12 pin HD 090 Male Connector available here:
http://www.cycleterminal.com/hd-series.html
It’s Sumitomo part number 6098-0252
If you elect to use the above connector, you’ll also need a crimper like this if you don’t already have one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017JU20Z6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You’ll need to reference the wiki to locate the factory connector:
http://www.nsxprime.com/FAQ/DIY/keyless_entry.htm
It’s under the glove box. It’s a 12 Pin Green Connector.
For the keyless module I bought a fairly basic unit but you can get a higher end Viper if you want. My instructions are fairly generic so it should work for any aftermarket keyless system.
This diagram shows which wires you’ll need to connect to. You really only need six basic connections. The connector is optional but makes a cleaner install. You can always tap the respective wires on the factory connector.
View attachment 164476
To arm/disarm and lock/unlock you’ll need a negative (-) signal from your keyless system.
Once you’ve identified/configured the lock wire, you’ll need to split it and insert into both pin #5 and #6 for Arm and Lock respectively*. Split the unlock wire and insert to pin #10 and #11 *
*IMPORTANT – You must install two diodes as shown in the diagram to isolate the arm and disarm signals. If you don’t, when you lock and unlock using one of the door buttons you’ll also arm and disarm the vehicle. In other words, if someone breaks your window and unlocks the door using the button on the door, your alarm will disarm. The alarm will go off if they break your window and lift up the unlock door pin though.
Constant 12+ volt power wire will go to pin#8
Ground (-) will go to pin#12.
Here’s my connector / harness connected to the factory KES plug.
While the factory KES module is mounted under the glove box, the aftermarket KES I purchased was small enough to fit above the Power Door Lock Control Unit (PDLCU).
Optional: Flashing Lights upon arm/disarm (if your aftermarket KES has this feature). This feature was not available with the factory KES. This particular unit sends a (+) signal for the lights. I ran a separate wire to tap into the Red/Black wire at the Grey Plug below the Driver’s dash. I forgot to take a picture but once you remove the driver’s knee bolster, it’s pretty obvious. If your unit sends a (-) signal then you’ll need to hook up a relay in order to flash your lights.
Optional: Trunk release (if your aftermarket KES has this feature). This feature was not available with the factory KES. You will need to run a separate wire for the trunk release. Everything I’ve read said to tap into the White/Black with Silver Dots wire which is located at a Blue Plug below the Driver’s dash. I was able to see the plug but after an hour of working upside down on my back, I gave up trying to access it. I suspect you pretty much have to take apart the dash to gain access to it. If someone has done it without removing the dash please share for future reference. The alternative was to make a connection at the trunk. You can splice into the Cell Phone DIN cable or CD changer cable if you’re not already using them. This way you can avoid having to run a wire through the engine bay. I tripled up the wires as they’re very thin. I ran the trunk release wire from the KES through the center console to the rear bulk head where it connected with the corresponding wires of the CD Changer Cable.
A few notes: I didn’t hook up switched power because I didn’t see any benefit. The factory keyless still locks and unlocks the doors with the ignition on. I also, didn’t plan on using the auto door lock when moving feature or the auto window roll up feature of the KES. My KES also came with a flashing LED light which I didn’t use either.
When you press lock, the doors lock and the factory alarm arms (flashing LED at driver’s door). When you press unlock, the doors unlock and the alarm disarms.
Keep in mind that you should press unlock before holding the trunk release button for 3 full seconds to pop the trunk. Otherwise you will set your alarm off.
The factory alarm does not fully activate until about 15 seconds after arming. The LED on the driver’s door flashes every second during this time. Once the LED flashes once every two seconds, the system is armed.
OE vs Aftermarket.
With the aftermarket unit, it does not let you know if a door is not fully closed. It will still lock the doors when you press the lock button. But the alarm will not be armed. You’ll need to be aware of this if you had a factory keyless and was used to the fact that the doors won’t lock if both doors are not fully closed (or trunk open, or hood open, etc.). This after-market unit also does not automatically lock the doors after you press unlock and don’t actually open one of the doors within 10-15 seconds (a feature of OE).
I’m happy that the lights flash with lock and unlock and I enjoy having a remote trunk release. Funny how the most minute of features can make such a difference.
Thanks to all before me that had attempted something similar and shared your knowledge.
The main take away is that if you want to activate the factory alarm, you’ll need to tap into the respective arm (BRN) and disarm (GRY) wires as well as lock (GRN/WHT) and unlock (WHT/YEL) on the factory connector. Be sure to isolate the arm and disarm wires with diodes. The factory alarm will NOT arm if the doors are unlocked.
Finally, if you have a 91 or 92 these threads should be helpful:
http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showthread.php/140311-91-92-Keyless-Solved
http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showthread.php/109139-91-keyless-entry-the-truth
Here's a video of it in action:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-sXbcPEV-DM
There were a lot of threads on Prime with lots of good info but nothing definitive. With a lot of help from @drew and @Old Guy , I was finally able to integrate an aftermarket keyless entry system using the factory keyless connector. This set up also arms and disarms the factory alarm. Keep in mind this was done on my 99. I believe it should be the same for 93-03.
*EDIT* see post#9 for diagram if you have a 91 or 92
Materials Needed:
1 Aftermarket Keyless Entry system
2 1N4001 Diodes
Optional:
12 pin HD 090 Male Connector available here:
http://www.cycleterminal.com/hd-series.html
It’s Sumitomo part number 6098-0252
If you elect to use the above connector, you’ll also need a crimper like this if you don’t already have one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017JU20Z6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You’ll need to reference the wiki to locate the factory connector:
http://www.nsxprime.com/FAQ/DIY/keyless_entry.htm
It’s under the glove box. It’s a 12 Pin Green Connector.
For the keyless module I bought a fairly basic unit but you can get a higher end Viper if you want. My instructions are fairly generic so it should work for any aftermarket keyless system.
This diagram shows which wires you’ll need to connect to. You really only need six basic connections. The connector is optional but makes a cleaner install. You can always tap the respective wires on the factory connector.
View attachment 164476
To arm/disarm and lock/unlock you’ll need a negative (-) signal from your keyless system.
Once you’ve identified/configured the lock wire, you’ll need to split it and insert into both pin #5 and #6 for Arm and Lock respectively*. Split the unlock wire and insert to pin #10 and #11 *
*IMPORTANT – You must install two diodes as shown in the diagram to isolate the arm and disarm signals. If you don’t, when you lock and unlock using one of the door buttons you’ll also arm and disarm the vehicle. In other words, if someone breaks your window and unlocks the door using the button on the door, your alarm will disarm. The alarm will go off if they break your window and lift up the unlock door pin though.
Constant 12+ volt power wire will go to pin#8
Ground (-) will go to pin#12.
Here’s my connector / harness connected to the factory KES plug.
While the factory KES module is mounted under the glove box, the aftermarket KES I purchased was small enough to fit above the Power Door Lock Control Unit (PDLCU).
Optional: Flashing Lights upon arm/disarm (if your aftermarket KES has this feature). This feature was not available with the factory KES. This particular unit sends a (+) signal for the lights. I ran a separate wire to tap into the Red/Black wire at the Grey Plug below the Driver’s dash. I forgot to take a picture but once you remove the driver’s knee bolster, it’s pretty obvious. If your unit sends a (-) signal then you’ll need to hook up a relay in order to flash your lights.
Optional: Trunk release (if your aftermarket KES has this feature). This feature was not available with the factory KES. You will need to run a separate wire for the trunk release. Everything I’ve read said to tap into the White/Black with Silver Dots wire which is located at a Blue Plug below the Driver’s dash. I was able to see the plug but after an hour of working upside down on my back, I gave up trying to access it. I suspect you pretty much have to take apart the dash to gain access to it. If someone has done it without removing the dash please share for future reference. The alternative was to make a connection at the trunk. You can splice into the Cell Phone DIN cable or CD changer cable if you’re not already using them. This way you can avoid having to run a wire through the engine bay. I tripled up the wires as they’re very thin. I ran the trunk release wire from the KES through the center console to the rear bulk head where it connected with the corresponding wires of the CD Changer Cable.
A few notes: I didn’t hook up switched power because I didn’t see any benefit. The factory keyless still locks and unlocks the doors with the ignition on. I also, didn’t plan on using the auto door lock when moving feature or the auto window roll up feature of the KES. My KES also came with a flashing LED light which I didn’t use either.
When you press lock, the doors lock and the factory alarm arms (flashing LED at driver’s door). When you press unlock, the doors unlock and the alarm disarms.
Keep in mind that you should press unlock before holding the trunk release button for 3 full seconds to pop the trunk. Otherwise you will set your alarm off.
The factory alarm does not fully activate until about 15 seconds after arming. The LED on the driver’s door flashes every second during this time. Once the LED flashes once every two seconds, the system is armed.
OE vs Aftermarket.
With the aftermarket unit, it does not let you know if a door is not fully closed. It will still lock the doors when you press the lock button. But the alarm will not be armed. You’ll need to be aware of this if you had a factory keyless and was used to the fact that the doors won’t lock if both doors are not fully closed (or trunk open, or hood open, etc.). This after-market unit also does not automatically lock the doors after you press unlock and don’t actually open one of the doors within 10-15 seconds (a feature of OE).
I’m happy that the lights flash with lock and unlock and I enjoy having a remote trunk release. Funny how the most minute of features can make such a difference.
Thanks to all before me that had attempted something similar and shared your knowledge.
The main take away is that if you want to activate the factory alarm, you’ll need to tap into the respective arm (BRN) and disarm (GRY) wires as well as lock (GRN/WHT) and unlock (WHT/YEL) on the factory connector. Be sure to isolate the arm and disarm wires with diodes. The factory alarm will NOT arm if the doors are unlocked.
Finally, if you have a 91 or 92 these threads should be helpful:
http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showthread.php/140311-91-92-Keyless-Solved
http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showthread.php/109139-91-keyless-entry-the-truth
Here's a video of it in action:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-sXbcPEV-DM
Last edited:
