DIY 7" Android Navpod Install

Update: I designed a 3D printed frame that will allow a cleaner install of the Android unit. With this frame you no longer need to use the Legos and glue. You do however need to cut the back of the Android unit to get enough clearance to fit. To install the frame remove the top and bottom felt tape from the NAVPOD then simply insert the frame. It's friction fit. If you want it to be more permanent you can add a few drops of super glue. I haven't had the need to and it's been fine.

The 3D file is free here:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5379317














Original Post:

I've been wanting to get some more modern features in the NSX such has Navigation, Bluetooth, and Reverse Camera. I already have a GROM unit and I'm pretty happy with it in terms of function but I was still lacking Navigation and a Reverse Camera.

I was inspired by these two threads:

http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showt...our-setup-as-well-as-why-you-chose-this-route

http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showt...armin-GPS-with-Wireless-Backup-Camera-Project

I began searching for an Android Unit that would fit the Navpod but had a hard time finding anything that would fit other than either a tablet or a Garmin. Anything that would fit would have to be pretty shallow as there's not much room to play with. The Garmin (latest model) was actually a tad too small. It went through the Navpod opening so I ended up returning it. Eventually I stumbled upon some Android units like this:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/LEH...666.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.43b84c4dCMC7iI



At less than $70 I was willing to take a chance to see if I could get it to fit. You would also need to get something like this to make it fit the face of the Navpod. In hindsight it's possible this frame would've worked with the Garmin as well.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002LTB9Q2/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_7?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

Alternatively just buy a similar unit that comes with the trim piece. There are multiple brands but from the pics on Aliexpress they look like the same basic design.


In order to get the unit to fit, you'll have to take it apart and remove the circuit board from the metal housing and attach it to the screen housing. I used one of the main screws and attached the other spot using a piece of "Lego" from the Dollar Tree (I bought 3 bags just to have extra) and used Plastic Surgery to glue it. This stuff is the best plastic glue I've ever used. Just drill a hole in the Lego.

https://www.amazon.com/Surehold-SH-...+surgery+glue&qid=1552884567&s=gateway&sr=8-2



This is what the circuit board looks like attached to the screen housing:



Here's a close up of the Lego:



To mount the unit onto the Navpod I used some more Legos and Plastic Surgery. I also used some 1/2" thick foam gasket I had laying around. I cut it to size and it provided very good spacing to center the unit against the face of the Navpod. The Legos also fit very well.


Legos:

Top:

Bottom:


Here's a side profile pic. I also mounted the GPS antenna to the Navpod because I wanted to be able to easily remove the entire unit as a whole. I kept the antenna facing up.


I referenced this for center console removal:


I got the SOS bracket and I had a hard time getting the Navpod to sit firmly. I did many tests with just the Navpod itself. Eventually I found that if you add some cushions to it, it will fit snugly. Here's what I used and how it looks during some test fitting.



I highly recommend test fitting the Navpod without the Android Unit installed as it will familiarize you with how everything goes together. With the cushions the top two screws are not too difficult to install. One thing I wasn't able to get to fit was the smaller vent tube. I just couldn't get the Navpod to sit flush with it so I just put the standard vent tube back and it works fine.


Thanks to @Old Guy for this wiring diagram. Remember the picture is of the Radio Unit and not the Plug. When you tap into the plug the order of PIN connectors is reversed but the wire coloring is the same.



For now I still intend to use the GROM for music because I like that the radio controls are closer. I intend to use the Android for Bluetooth Calls (Displays numbers, GROM doesn't), Navigation, and Back Up Camera. I like to use Posi-Taps because they're easy to use in tight spots, are very secure when used correctly, and can be removed and reused without damaging the wiring too much. I only needed to connect, constant power, switched power, illumination, and ground. For NAV voice, I connected the Android's Front Left speaker wires directly to the center mount speaker. With the center mount speaker disconnected I don't notice too much difference in overall sound quality so I was willing to sacrifice that for now.




I also like to use solder sleeves and shrink wrap. Butt connectors are fine too but when you're tight on space I find these work better


All shrink wrapped:

Wires routed behind the vent tube:

First in car test:

Everything back together:


Thanks to @nsxbuilder for this boot logo:


I haven't had time to install the Back up camera yet but the wiring to the head unit is already done so it's just a matter of running the connection to the trunk. Also, you can't change the boot logo on your own, at least I don't recommend it. It could crash your unit (ask me how I know). I ended up sending the pic to the vendor and asked them to install as the boot logo before sending me the replacement unit. I wanted to change the boot animation as well but was told it wasn't possible. I don't want to chance this unit crashing as well so I'm not going to bother with it.


EDIT: See post #12 for Back Up Camera install.

I like it! A great way to update the tech on the NSX. Out of curiosity, what are your top apps that you install and use on the Android?

Lude_2_NSX said:

I like it! A great way to update the tech on the NSX. Out of curiosity, what are your top apps that you install and use on the Android?

Click to expand...

For GPS, I'm using HERE Maps because I like the Offline feature. I'm also using Digital Clock Xperia for the clock.

For AudioBooks I use MortPlayer, there's one for music as well.

That's about it, I'm not really an App person.

I have this setup to do but not that tech savy to tackle it yet. Also been disappointed how slow my tablet is

I really like this idea of integrating a supported tablet with full OS (Android). It's making me want to develop an Android app specifically for use in an NSX setup like this. The gears in my head are turning...

Great work. Really great idea on those pads to make the pod fit better. I might take mine apart this weekend and do that. Also thanks for the NSX logo file you posted going to use it as my splash boot screen for my Pioneer radio.

Man that lego idea was awesome! Love the final results!

That's awesome! Thanks for posting how you did this and the tips/tricks.

How's the screen brightness? It's too bad this isn't a popular published spec with the Chinese headunits.

Edit - Now I need to order some solder sleeves. Never knew those existed!

Been tracking this thread as well. I bought the navpod and this looks like the only setup I actually like for what I want — Ive gotten really used to using apple CarPlay in my Vette — but want to keep everything looking as stock as possible. Thanks for figuring this out for the rest of us.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Mac Attack said:

That's awesome! Thanks for posting how you did this and the tips/tricks.

How's the screen brightness? It's too bad this isn't a popular published spec with the Chinese headunits.

Edit - Now I need to order some solder sleeves. Never knew those existed!

Click to expand...

Screen brightness is good but the screen is very hard to see if the sun is bright due to the angle and placement of the screen. Maybe there's a matte screen protector that would reduce the glare.

Solder sleeves are available for cheap on eBay if you're willing to wait for shipping from China.

Very nice!

Those solder sleeves are cool, I have to get some myself!

Ok so I finally got around to installing the back up camera. I wasn't sure if I wanted to drill a hole in my bumper so I ended up buying a license plate mounted camera but this one mounts BEHIND the plate so you don't see the frame.



https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GKL7FR4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I ran the wires through the factory grommet which houses the license plate lights. As you can see there was no way I was going to be able to fit the RCA plug through that tiny grommet hole. I had to cut the wire and then re-attach. Solder Sleeves were perfect for this task.



I read that someone used the CD changer cable to run wires to the cabin so I did the same. I had sold my changer when I got the GROM unit but I still had the cable in my trunk. I cut the two ends and there just happened to the same colored wires available. This saved me a ton of time.



It works!

FYI there are *two* DIN cables that pass through the rear bulkhead (at least for the NA1's). They pass through on top side of the LH interior quarter panel. They make connections there as well as the termination described points below.

One is for the CD changer (now MP3 box) on the RH side of the trunk that terminates in the dash stereo well. The other DIN cable goes from the LH front trunk space and terminates behind the center speaker, this is for the optional mobile phone unit.

There is no need to cut anything as there are RCA to DIN cables and there are generic DIN connectors with solder connections (see AliExpress for both), choose the appropriate binary gender (there is no spectrum connector).

drew said:

FYI there are *two* DIN cables that pass through the rear bulkhead (at least for the NA1's). They pass through on top side of the LH interior quarter panel. They make connections there as well as the termination described points below.

One is for the CD changer (now MP3 box) on the RH side of the trunk that terminates in the dash stereo well. The other DIN cable goes from the LH front trunk space and terminates behind the center speaker, this is for the optional mobile phone unit.

There is no need to cut anything as there are RCA to DIN cables and there are generic DIN connectors with solder connections (see AliExpress for both), choose the appropriate binary gender (there is no spectrum connector).

Click to expand...

I didn't realize there was a second DIN cable...good to know, thanks!

I was able to find the RCA to DIN connectors you mentioned but for my purposes I still needed to run a trigger wire from the reverse light. I wasn't able to find the generic DIN connectors with solder connections. Perhaps you can provide a link for future reference.

I cut the connectors off the extra cable I had in the trunk and it's working well for my purposes as it allows me to easily connect/disconnect should I need to.

Your search terms are 'DIN 8 pin circular' for the CD player and a 'DIN 13 pin circular' for the phone, you will need both genders of each time to connect to the preinstalled cable.

Both available from Mouser or AliExpress in a spectrum of genders, casings, and mounts.

The trunk side DIN requires a male connector to connect and the interior compartment requires a female. The DIN 13's are not common. The DIN 8's are common and can retrofit to connectors with fewer pins.

Using the existing DINs saves a lot of time, space, weight, and possibly money as well.

drew said:

Your search terms are 'DIN 8 pin circular' for the CD player and a 'DIN 13 pin circular' for the phone.

Both available from Mouser or AliExpress in a spectrum of genders, casings, and mounts.

Using the existing DINs saves a lot of time, space, weight, and possibly money as well.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the info!

drew said:

FYI there are *two* DIN cables that pass through the rear bulkhead (at least for the NA1's). They pass through on top side of the LH interior quarter panel. They make connections there as well as the termination described points below.

One is for the CD changer (now MP3 box) on the RH side of the trunk that terminates in the dash stereo well. The other DIN cable goes from the LH front trunk space and terminates behind the center speaker, this is for the optional mobile phone unit.

There is no need to cut anything as there are RCA to DIN cables and there are generic DIN connectors with solder connections (see AliExpress for both), choose the appropriate binary gender (there is no spectrum connector).

Click to expand...

drew said:

Your search terms are 'DIN 8 pin circular' for the CD player and a 'DIN 13 pin circular' for the phone.

Both available from Mouser or AliExpress in a spectrum of genders, casings, and mounts.

Using the existing DINs saves a lot of time, space, weight, and possibly money as well.

Click to expand...

Had no idea about being able to do this. Have wanted to install a rear view camera and didn't want to have to run all the cables to the back though so I have been putting it off. This is really cool that you can just use one of those cables with some adapters to run everything. Going to bump this up my list now.

Is there a way to reduce the outer dimensions of the LEHX 7'' Android unit down to 173mm x 98mm? Possibly by removing the bezel?

My NSX has a nicely hacked double stereo DIN hole, but they filled it with a single DIN storage compartment and a single DIN stereo....which I don't want. I would like a backup camera, maps and way to play my podcasts/mp3's.

The the LEHX 7" looks great, but I don't think I can fit it into my console that is cut to the maximum.

drew said:

Is there a way to reduce the outer dimensions of the LEHX 7'' Android unit down to 173mm x 98mm? Possibly by removing the bezel?

My NSX has a nicely hacked double stereo DIN hole, but they filled it with a single DIN storage compartment and a single DIN stereo....which I don't want. I would like a backup camera, maps and way to play my podcasts/mp3's.

The the LEHX 7" looks great, but I don't think I can fit it into my console that is cut to the maximum.

Click to expand...

Not sure if that's possible but perhaps the screen doesn't have to mount flush on your console. For comparison here are some pics with the unit next to the stock Bose faceplate. As you can see from the picture on the left, the wider (top) portion of the Bose Faceplate is slightly wider than the unit while narrower (bottom) portion of the faceplate is just a tad more narrow than the unit.


Sent from my R1 HD using Tapatalk

Curious if anyone else has done this and if you have did you go with the same LEHX unit or a higher end unit. I ask because every morning, the clock is about 15 minutes slow and it takes a few minutes for the time to update to the correct time. Not a big deal but it does bug me. Also curious if anyone is using the headunit as the primary signal to the bose amps, essentially bypassing the Bose headunit.

I have the same unit. I just hooked up the speaker leads directly to the Bose inputs, works just fine. You do not need the OEM head unit.

I am still in process of finalizing the install, I am planning on using a double-DIN empty mounting box (from AliExpress for $10) with some pop-riveted angle brackets at the correct distance from the OEM mounting points. I am awaiting delivery...

I have not paid attention to the clock issues. I would suspect a low voltage battery in the unit itself, this might be visible as you have the unit apart already.

The unit is surprisingly good quality and has great reaction time, highly recommend. Will update for long term reliability.

edit: now with pinout

This unit has a couple of plain wire leads for the WiFi antenna and another for a BT antenna.

Are these the actual antennas or am I to do something with these wires? I would like to get better WiFi throughput with my home router.

Searched around and didn't find much application for automotive WiFi or BT antennas, any pointers appreciated.

drew said:

This unit has a couple of plain wire leads for the WiFi antenna and another for a BT antenna.

Are these the actual antennas or am I to do something with these wires? I would like to get better WiFi throughput with my home router.

Searched around and didn't find much application for automotive WiFi or BT antennas, any pointers appreciated.

Click to expand...

Yes, those are the actual antennas. I didn't connect those wires to anything and my WiFi reception is decent.

Install Update: this stereo is amazing, more so for the money spent ~$80.

Pro: Plenty of features and a full android system. The stereo output is wired directly up to the OEM Bose amplifiers, sounds great. Large responsive screen. The reverse camera image overrides the boot sequence for immediate use.

Con: Large screen causing the entire unit to *barely* fit within the NSX. The e-brake must be fully pulled up as the sharp part of the console will rub hard against the e-brake boot and the console barely clears the stereo face.

The biggest issue is that the ashtray cover does not close. I am not sure how to deal with it: possibly cutting out the back body of the stereo OR causing the stereo to be installed at a more vertical position (with a bonus of less sun glare).

**

The reverse camera went in without issue. I used the existing cell phone DIN 13 cable to carry the reverse camera signal and power. The round DIN-13 connectors make this all a snap. I routed the camera wire through the license plate light grommet. The grommet is very forgiving: pull out the grommet and harness. untape the wire seal in the center of the grommet, silicone spray the camera harness and push it through the grommet. Make sure you have the camera harness going the correct direction, retape, reinstall and you are in business. You can also pull in camera power from the brown 4 pin connector, use the pins closest to the barb.

drew said:

Install Update: this stereo is amazing, more so for the money spent ~$80.

Pro: Plenty of features and a full android system. The stereo output is wired directly up to the OEM Bose amplifiers, sounds great. Large responsive screen, this is also a con. The reverse camera image overrides the boot sequence for immediate use.

Con: Large screen causing the entire unit to *barely* fit within the NSX. The e-brake must be fully pulled up as the sharp part of the console will rub hard against the e-brake boot and the console barely clears the stereo face.

The biggest issue is that the ashtray cover does not close. I am not sure how to deal with it: possibly cutting out the back body of the stereo OR causing the stereo to be installed at a more vertical position (with a bonus of less sun glare).

**

The reverse camera went in without issue. I used the existing cell phone DIN 13 cable to carry the reverse camera signal and power. The round DIN-13 connectors make this all a snap. I routed the camera wire through the license plate light grommet. The grommet is very forgiving: pull out the grommet and harness. untape the wire seal in the center of the grommet, silicone spray the camera harness and push it through the grommet. Make sure you have the camera harness going the correct direction, retape, reinstall and you are in business. You can also pull in camera power from the brown 4 pin connector, use the pins closest to the barb.

Click to expand...

Any pics of your setup?

Are you using a plug n play adapter for the speaker wiring? How's your radio reception? What antenna are you using?