So while i was perusing the top end of the motor i figured i would clean and service the injectors. After nearly 160k miles i can certainly say they were not "clean" but they weren't terrible. RC Engineering wants $150 to service the OEM injectors ($25x6) plus my cost to ship, lets call it $160. What the Heck. You only live once. lets try something new
I found some 4-hole Bosch injectors from this company called OsideTiger. California based and in the fuel injection game for almost 17 years, Charlie has been messing with CRX and 90's Honda models for awhile. He informed me that the 250cc 3.0L C30A injector is common for a few different models, they have successfully adapted the 4-hole Bosch units which work perfect.
He told me they were working towards a 12-hole Denso UC solution (apparently more holes, finer atomization, cleaner burn etc. etc.)
My understanding is that the OEM injectors are essentially late 1980's technology and there have been some major improvements since then.
These 12-hole type injectors are essentially what are provided in modern cars, providing the cleanest stream/atomization. The kit includes everything needed to install, even wiring adapters that allow no-cutting. The stock ECU can handle these injectors no problem, just reset and let it relearn.
I have had them installed and running in my 1995 NSX for 100 miles, so far no problems. Idle seem smoother, starts faster, i "certainly feel" a bit more power or torque from 4k onwards. It feels "better" at low speeds around town (its like i can feel the bite point of the clutch easier now?). I will update again as soon i put more miles, hopefully this is something that can benefit the NSX community.
update: 200 more miles (now 300 total). I am definitely getting better MPG, i need to figure out how much by running a tank through it at once.
install notes:
-REPLACE Fuel line 12mm crush washers x2 (90428-PD6-003) where fuel line meets fuel rail or risk burning your $60k car to the ground over $10 (ask me how i know:tongue
- ziptie adapters to vacuum line for fuel pressure regulator so it will still fit under injector covers
-i used 1mm washer/shims to push up the fuel rail a bit. These injectors are 1mm taller. I think Charlie will start including these now, but if not they are like 12 cents at home depot.
-make sure the wires for the adapters are not touching the valve covers
-align injectors with marks on fuel rail
-put just a SMALL amount of clean motor oil to lube the injector O-Rings to go in easy on both ends
-prime fuel pump 2-3x before initial start as fuel rail will be empty
-let the engine warm up completely to temp before driving off for the first time, pull over every so often to check for leaks and carry a fire extinguisher just to be extra safe! leave intake manifold cover and fuel rail covers off during this process.
*this is great time to clean or replace the Intake Air Temp and if your feeling cheeky remove/clean the Throttle body as well following Larry Bastanza's article in the NSXCA magazine.
advantages for this to me:
-plug n play- no cutting
-will work with stock ECU (im sure even more benefits with aftermarket engine management)
-includes all needed harness adapters (the stock connectors suck to get off, get a pick or really small flathead screwdriver ready)
-relatively high reward, low impact project
-easily reversible
-removes a large-unsightly box in the engine bay
-better MPG
-relatively "cheaper" than $160 ($150+10ship) just to clean my OEM injectors from RC Engineering.
-100% genuine Denso, I confirmed this with Charlie at OsideTiger. OsideTiger remanufactures/cleans them etc. He has been excellent to work with.
I will really only know 100% with live data once i get this thing on a Dyno and my SOS AEM V2 installed, but for now.....it works pretty damn well:biggrin:
UPDATE 2/7/2019
Ok so the first 12-hole Denso 270cc injectors i tried popped up lean codes towards the end of a tank of gas (300+ miles). The car idled and ran fine but this worried me so after speaking with Charlie he thought to go up a size on the injectors because i have some performance modifications. The codes didnt pop up when i was accelerating just around town or normal 3rd gear, 50-60mph conditions.
P0171: Fuel System Too Lean (Bank 1)
P0174: Fuel System Too Lean (Bank 2)
The first time i cleared the codes (just pull the clock fuse under the hood) thinking it was just a freak occurrence or maybe something was left loose, the codes came back after another 150 miles or so. I promptly limped the car back home, took apart the airbox/throttle body and triple checked everything to make sure i was not having any air leaks to cause a lean code.
I arranged a new setup from Charlie to try.
So now we are on variation 2 of this modified injector setup. Now I am running Bosch 18-hole 315cc 14mm injectors with 11mm adapters into the fuel rail. These injectors seem to have solved the lean issue and because of the very fine atomizing of fuel from the 18-hole setup, this increase in flowrate does not seem to have any detrimental effect. These injectors spray in a cone pattern, the car idles and runs fine all the way to redline, so far no complaints after 300 or so miles. From what i understand the OEM 250cc injector (91-96) and 270cc (97+) is small and it is run at a high duty rate.
Im sure there are more scientific ways to go about this but im just trying to share what i have learned messing with injectors etc.
Flowrate is measured at how much fuel an injector flows at an industry standard 43.5 psi, because the OEM injectors are older needle style injectors they do not atomize as well as a modern 4,12, or 18 hole injectors so they shoot "two streams" which is a dated technology. The game nowadays is how fine/dense of a mist and small the particles of fuel can get. The fuel rail/fuel pressure regulator controls this ~43.5psi condition for the injectors so flowrate can be varied to a certain extent when increasing how finely the fuel is atomized. My understanding is that as we increase the atomization efficiency and mist density of fuel in the motor we can safely run a slightly larger flowrated injector. The ECU cannot physically see the larger flowrate but because the difference is not much it compensates in the fuel table. I am running a Uni-Filter, DF scoop, and full SOS exhaust setup, so i believe these modifications make the case for larger injectors even more convincing.
For example the Prospeed RDX injectors are 410cc flow rated at 43.5psi, this is too much a of a difference for the stock ECU to handle. it cannot effectively trim the fuel tables enough to compensate for the increased flow. Hence there was a chip for 91-94 and additional tuning required for 95+.
Im sure someone more versed than me will correct me on some of this, but hey at least im out here trying
.
Some notes about installing Osidetiger's RC-DEVIL Bosch 18-hole kit:
-3 washers now shimming up the fuel rail on each post (12 total), this is the max height possible anymore and the nut wont have enough to thread on.
-use a bit of fresh motor oil when pressing in o-ring (14mm to 11mm) adapters into fuel rail
-ziptie adapters to fuel pressure regulator vacuum line
-use new crush washers on fuel line
-you must rotate the front bank of injectors 90-degrees to plug in as the plugs foul against a harness. Injectors spray in a perfect cone so it doesnt matter the position (no need to really align with marks on the fuel rail like OEM injectors)
I have 400 miles on this setup and so far no codes or problems. Im pretty happy with this setup however i dont have any great data besides, i installed it, ran it, pullled the spark plugs and "read" them with a nice light brown color. Everything seems to be operating/burning fine and it seems to make power everywhere. I have not done air/fuel ratio as the original OBD2 o2 sensors are not wideband so they do not show that information. I think this setup is pretty darn good and the motor runs like a sewing machine.
So far i know for sure this setup will work on 1995-1995 NSX for sure, im fairly certain it will work on 91-94 NSX with the same injectors just send Charlie pictures.
left: Blue old 270cc Denso injector
right:Gray 315cc Bosch injector and new adapter
Notice there are 3 washers stacked to shim up the fuel rail on each post. (4 posts, 12 washers total).
shown here is the rear bank, on the front bank you will rotate the injectors 90 degrees to get them to clear the harness.
Left:
blue 12-hole Denso
right top:
gray 18-hole Bosch
I found some 4-hole Bosch injectors from this company called OsideTiger. California based and in the fuel injection game for almost 17 years, Charlie has been messing with CRX and 90's Honda models for awhile. He informed me that the 250cc 3.0L C30A injector is common for a few different models, they have successfully adapted the 4-hole Bosch units which work perfect.
He told me they were working towards a 12-hole Denso UC solution (apparently more holes, finer atomization, cleaner burn etc. etc.)
My understanding is that the OEM injectors are essentially late 1980's technology and there have been some major improvements since then.
These 12-hole type injectors are essentially what are provided in modern cars, providing the cleanest stream/atomization. The kit includes everything needed to install, even wiring adapters that allow no-cutting. The stock ECU can handle these injectors no problem, just reset and let it relearn.
I have had them installed and running in my 1995 NSX for 100 miles, so far no problems. Idle seem smoother, starts faster, i "certainly feel" a bit more power or torque from 4k onwards. It feels "better" at low speeds around town (its like i can feel the bite point of the clutch easier now?). I will update again as soon i put more miles, hopefully this is something that can benefit the NSX community.
update: 200 more miles (now 300 total). I am definitely getting better MPG, i need to figure out how much by running a tank through it at once.
install notes:
-REPLACE Fuel line 12mm crush washers x2 (90428-PD6-003) where fuel line meets fuel rail or risk burning your $60k car to the ground over $10 (ask me how i know:tongue
- ziptie adapters to vacuum line for fuel pressure regulator so it will still fit under injector covers
-i used 1mm washer/shims to push up the fuel rail a bit. These injectors are 1mm taller. I think Charlie will start including these now, but if not they are like 12 cents at home depot.
-make sure the wires for the adapters are not touching the valve covers
-align injectors with marks on fuel rail
-put just a SMALL amount of clean motor oil to lube the injector O-Rings to go in easy on both ends
-prime fuel pump 2-3x before initial start as fuel rail will be empty
-let the engine warm up completely to temp before driving off for the first time, pull over every so often to check for leaks and carry a fire extinguisher just to be extra safe! leave intake manifold cover and fuel rail covers off during this process.
*this is great time to clean or replace the Intake Air Temp and if your feeling cheeky remove/clean the Throttle body as well following Larry Bastanza's article in the NSXCA magazine.
advantages for this to me:
-plug n play- no cutting
-will work with stock ECU (im sure even more benefits with aftermarket engine management)
-includes all needed harness adapters (the stock connectors suck to get off, get a pick or really small flathead screwdriver ready)
-relatively high reward, low impact project
-easily reversible
-removes a large-unsightly box in the engine bay
-better MPG
-relatively "cheaper" than $160 ($150+10ship) just to clean my OEM injectors from RC Engineering.
-100% genuine Denso, I confirmed this with Charlie at OsideTiger. OsideTiger remanufactures/cleans them etc. He has been excellent to work with.
I will really only know 100% with live data once i get this thing on a Dyno and my SOS AEM V2 installed, but for now.....it works pretty damn well:biggrin:
UPDATE 2/7/2019
Ok so the first 12-hole Denso 270cc injectors i tried popped up lean codes towards the end of a tank of gas (300+ miles). The car idled and ran fine but this worried me so after speaking with Charlie he thought to go up a size on the injectors because i have some performance modifications. The codes didnt pop up when i was accelerating just around town or normal 3rd gear, 50-60mph conditions.
P0171: Fuel System Too Lean (Bank 1)
P0174: Fuel System Too Lean (Bank 2)
The first time i cleared the codes (just pull the clock fuse under the hood) thinking it was just a freak occurrence or maybe something was left loose, the codes came back after another 150 miles or so. I promptly limped the car back home, took apart the airbox/throttle body and triple checked everything to make sure i was not having any air leaks to cause a lean code.
I arranged a new setup from Charlie to try.
So now we are on variation 2 of this modified injector setup. Now I am running Bosch 18-hole 315cc 14mm injectors with 11mm adapters into the fuel rail. These injectors seem to have solved the lean issue and because of the very fine atomizing of fuel from the 18-hole setup, this increase in flowrate does not seem to have any detrimental effect. These injectors spray in a cone pattern, the car idles and runs fine all the way to redline, so far no complaints after 300 or so miles. From what i understand the OEM 250cc injector (91-96) and 270cc (97+) is small and it is run at a high duty rate.
Im sure there are more scientific ways to go about this but im just trying to share what i have learned messing with injectors etc.
Flowrate is measured at how much fuel an injector flows at an industry standard 43.5 psi, because the OEM injectors are older needle style injectors they do not atomize as well as a modern 4,12, or 18 hole injectors so they shoot "two streams" which is a dated technology. The game nowadays is how fine/dense of a mist and small the particles of fuel can get. The fuel rail/fuel pressure regulator controls this ~43.5psi condition for the injectors so flowrate can be varied to a certain extent when increasing how finely the fuel is atomized. My understanding is that as we increase the atomization efficiency and mist density of fuel in the motor we can safely run a slightly larger flowrated injector. The ECU cannot physically see the larger flowrate but because the difference is not much it compensates in the fuel table. I am running a Uni-Filter, DF scoop, and full SOS exhaust setup, so i believe these modifications make the case for larger injectors even more convincing.
For example the Prospeed RDX injectors are 410cc flow rated at 43.5psi, this is too much a of a difference for the stock ECU to handle. it cannot effectively trim the fuel tables enough to compensate for the increased flow. Hence there was a chip for 91-94 and additional tuning required for 95+.
Im sure someone more versed than me will correct me on some of this, but hey at least im out here trying
Some notes about installing Osidetiger's RC-DEVIL Bosch 18-hole kit:
-3 washers now shimming up the fuel rail on each post (12 total), this is the max height possible anymore and the nut wont have enough to thread on.
-use a bit of fresh motor oil when pressing in o-ring (14mm to 11mm) adapters into fuel rail
-ziptie adapters to fuel pressure regulator vacuum line
-use new crush washers on fuel line
-you must rotate the front bank of injectors 90-degrees to plug in as the plugs foul against a harness. Injectors spray in a perfect cone so it doesnt matter the position (no need to really align with marks on the fuel rail like OEM injectors)
I have 400 miles on this setup and so far no codes or problems. Im pretty happy with this setup however i dont have any great data besides, i installed it, ran it, pullled the spark plugs and "read" them with a nice light brown color. Everything seems to be operating/burning fine and it seems to make power everywhere. I have not done air/fuel ratio as the original OBD2 o2 sensors are not wideband so they do not show that information. I think this setup is pretty darn good and the motor runs like a sewing machine.
So far i know for sure this setup will work on 1995-1995 NSX for sure, im fairly certain it will work on 91-94 NSX with the same injectors just send Charlie pictures.
left: Blue old 270cc Denso injector
right:Gray 315cc Bosch injector and new adapter
Notice there are 3 washers stacked to shim up the fuel rail on each post. (4 posts, 12 washers total).
shown here is the rear bank, on the front bank you will rotate the injectors 90 degrees to get them to clear the harness.
Left:
blue 12-hole Denso
right top:
gray 18-hole Bosch
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