That's another option! I don't think the cruise control is very desirable from a used-parts perspective. Earlier this spring I did an ~900 mile road trip and didn't miss the archaic cruise control.
Honcho's Long Road to Imola Type-S Zero
- Thread starter Honcho
- Start date
That's another option! I don't think the cruise control is very desirable from a used-parts perspective. Earlier this spring I did an ~900 mile road trip and didn't miss the archaic cruise control.
Well I'm of the age when on a long highway trip I set the cruise control at 90 and just go.
Ahhhh, Nsx interior work.... You almost need a rotisserie rack to do anything in there.:biggrin:
Honestly, that was the first thought that crossed my mind. But, I wasn't sure whether that would make it harder or easier to get the cable off of the pedal arm.
True story. And I'm not a small dude- 6'1"
I could try that, but worry about having a cable attached to the gas pedal just flopping around in the front bay (I would zip tie it to something though).
Thankfully, my prime family has me hooked up for parts ( [MENTION=4282]docjohn[/MENTION] [MENTION=30095]JohnWayne[/MENTION], etc.). I am going to order a new 6-speed box from Honda. Still available, but built to order and 12 month wait. Which is fine, as Stage 2 won't happen until 2020 at the earliest, or if the AT breaks before then!
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When I got my NSX the wiper nozzles were not functional and didnt even have the factory grommet.. As a temp fix I was able to use a small piece of rubber hose that I attached to the washer nozzle and the 90 elbow of the factory washer fluid line, till I was able to get new factory grommets.
Weight Reduction - S Zero Conversion 04
EPS.
NSX Prime's very own [MENTION=34522]NSX_n00b[/MENTION] stopped by for some NSX training. The job took about 2 hours, taking our time. Ball joint separator is required. Hardest part was wiggling out the rack- the driver side has metal tabs on the housing that want to gouge the aluminum coolant lines as you twist it. Definitely helps to have two people. We found that once we got the rack over toward the passenger side, a large screwdriver helped to pry the EPS housing up and over the bottom edge of the front beam. This is what eventually popped the entire unit out. Watch the [MENTION=15998]d1 guy[/MENTION] video about 10 times. It shows pretty much everything you need to do.
NSX_n00b below, being killed by the NSX. Honcho on top "supervising." LOL
Front beam, sans EPS. Giving an idea of how it bolts up.
The biggest snag. In Matt's video, he makes it look easy to remove the two terminal nuts holding the wire harness to the EPS brain. The nuts on my EPS unit were literally melted into the studs like warm ice cream from 26 years of corrosion. When we put a socket on them, the edges just crumbled even before we tried to turn it. There was no choice, we had to cut the harness. For me, this was fine as I am removing EPS from the car and replacing with manual steering. But for other owners who might need to do this and will keep the EPS, I surmised that you can always splice new terminals onto the wires. I didn't like the idea of soaking the nuts in PB Blaster so close to the sensitive electronics of the EPS brain.
The hole that goes up to your steering column.
It's out:
EPS.
NSX Prime's very own [MENTION=34522]NSX_n00b[/MENTION] stopped by for some NSX training
. The job took about 2 hours, taking our time. Ball joint separator is required. Hardest part was wiggling out the rack- the driver side has metal tabs on the housing that want to gouge the aluminum coolant lines as you twist it. Definitely helps to have two people. We found that once we got the rack over toward the passenger side, a large screwdriver helped to pry the EPS housing up and over the bottom edge of the front beam. This is what eventually popped the entire unit out. Watch the [MENTION=15998]d1 guy[/MENTION] video about 10 times. It shows pretty much everything you need to do.NSX_n00b below, being killed by the NSX. Honcho on top "supervising." LOL
Front beam, sans EPS. Giving an idea of how it bolts up.
The biggest snag. In Matt's video, he makes it look easy to remove the two terminal nuts holding the wire harness to the EPS brain. The nuts on my EPS unit were literally melted into the studs like warm ice cream from 26 years of corrosion. When we put a socket on them, the edges just crumbled even before we tried to turn it. There was no choice, we had to cut the harness. For me, this was fine as I am removing EPS from the car and replacing with manual steering. But for other owners who might need to do this and will keep the EPS, I surmised that you can always splice new terminals onto the wires. I didn't like the idea of soaking the nuts in PB Blaster so close to the sensitive electronics of the EPS brain.
The hole that goes up to your steering column.
It's out:
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Weight Reduction - S Zero Conversion 05
More EPS
Completed the removal of the EPS power unit from the passenger footwell. Quite cramped, as usual, but fairly straightforward. Worst part by far was the wire harness plug on the unit. Absolutely brutal and took almost an hour to remove. That is even after I cut the harness (I am going to trim off the pigtail that goes to the EPs power unit) That plug felt like it was welded together.
More work on the EPS rack. Removing tie rod ends. Fairly simple tools needed, but you need a large flat head screwdriver or chisel to bend back the locking washer tabs.
Full Gen 1 EPS Auto trans kit ready for packaging and then on its way to Matt and Charles at NSX Rack Repair.
More EPS
Completed the removal of the EPS power unit from the passenger footwell. Quite cramped, as usual, but fairly straightforward. Worst part by far was the wire harness plug on the unit. Absolutely brutal and took almost an hour to remove. That is even after I cut the harness (I am going to trim off the pigtail that goes to the EPs power unit) That plug felt like it was welded together.
More work on the EPS rack. Removing tie rod ends. Fairly simple tools needed, but you need a large flat head screwdriver or chisel to bend back the locking washer tabs.
Full Gen 1 EPS Auto trans kit ready for packaging and then on its way to Matt and Charles at NSX Rack Repair.
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An eternal sore arm for you.:biggrin:
Body and Paint Work 07
Spent most of the day cleaning out the basement. Amazing how much stuff one accumulates over the years... But still had a chance to play with the soda blaster. Forgot to take a before picture, but amazing result. Best part is the soda does not remove metal and just rinses off with water. The aluminum immediately oxidized. Wondering if I should clear coat it before installing back on the car... All aluminum pieces on the car will be getting this treatment.
Spent most of the day cleaning out the basement. Amazing how much stuff one accumulates over the years... But still had a chance to play with the soda blaster. Forgot to take a before picture, but amazing result. Best part is the soda does not remove metal and just rinses off with water. The aluminum immediately oxidized. Wondering if I should clear coat it before installing back on the car... All aluminum pieces on the car will be getting this treatment.
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SO true.
What kind of soda blaster would you recommend? I've always wanted one. TIA.
More details on your soda blaster please! Good work. 
I bought the blaster gun from Harbor Freight years ago to refinish the shifter knob on my first NSX (turned out great btw, ask [MENTION=31359]jazzmann[/MENTION]). Of all the blasters, it had the lowest CFM requirement (6 CFM @ 90 psi), which was important as my compressor is only about 5CFM @ 90 psi. Most of the big blasters need at least 10CFM at 90 psi, which is only available from expensive 2-stage compressors. For blasting media, I use the 50lbs of Armex Medium grit soda from Harbor Freight. You can use any kind of media with the gun, however. The gun uses more air than the compressor puts out, but it's close enough so that it charges back up while I reload the hopper. The great thing about the soda media is that it does not harm the substrate (including plastic and rubber), it washes away clean, and is abrasive enough to remove most anything I've encountered on the car, including paint (took the red overspray right off the battery holder piece). I just blast right out on the driveway and rinse off the media with a garden hose.
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[MENTION=18194]Honcho[/MENTION]
Thanks. I bought the HF gravity feed blaster gun below a long time ago and it was completely useless. I have a 9 cfm at 90 psi compressor. Maybe I'll pick up one like yours next time I'm there. Would really like to soda blast some stuff.
https://www.harborfreight.com/gravity-feed-blaster-gun-93221.html
Thanks. I bought the HF gravity feed blaster gun below a long time ago and it was completely useless. I have a 9 cfm at 90 psi compressor. Maybe I'll pick up one like yours next time I'm there. Would really like to soda blast some stuff.
https://www.harborfreight.com/gravity-feed-blaster-gun-93221.html
Body and Paint Work 08
More progress today. Re-fit the cowl and aligned it correctly using all new trim clips. Agitated and washed the cowl with hot soapy water then soaked it in 303 protectant for 3 days. Did the same with the hood gasket.
Test fitting the gasket. I am re-using, but I'm fairly certain it has shrunken over the last 26 years.
Test-fitting cowl with loose trim screws. I left them loose while inserting the trim clips and then tightened while checking the fit.
After adding the trim clips. I'm very happy with the result.
Still some unacceptable panel showing under the gasket. The cowl is straight and lined up on the body, so I'm chalking this up to a shrunken gasket. I will order a new one for the re-paint.
Also, something came in the mail today...
More progress today. Re-fit the cowl and aligned it correctly using all new trim clips. Agitated and washed the cowl with hot soapy water then soaked it in 303 protectant for 3 days. Did the same with the hood gasket.
Test fitting the gasket. I am re-using, but I'm fairly certain it has shrunken over the last 26 years.
Test-fitting cowl with loose trim screws. I left them loose while inserting the trim clips and then tightened while checking the fit.
After adding the trim clips. I'm very happy with the result.
Still some unacceptable panel showing under the gasket. The cowl is straight and lined up on the body, so I'm chalking this up to a shrunken gasket. I will order a new one for the re-paint.
Also, something came in the mail today...
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Weight Reduction - S Zero Conversion 06
Got the cruise control actuator cable off the unit.
The unit is out!
After removing the actuator unit, you need to remove the mounting stand. It has three 10 mm bolts- two on the bottom (under the dirt in the picture) and one on the fender wall. There also are two wire harness clips attached to the stand that need to come off.
Cruise control deleted. Time to break out the shop vac.
Got the cruise control actuator cable off the unit.
The unit is out!
After removing the actuator unit, you need to remove the mounting stand. It has three 10 mm bolts- two on the bottom (under the dirt in the picture) and one on the fender wall. There also are two wire harness clips attached to the stand that need to come off.
Cruise control deleted. Time to break out the shop vac.
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If you are going to go to manual rack, what are you going to do with the eps control module? I am looking for one.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
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Johnnyb70 said:
They are on their way to NSX Rack Repair. Sorry!
Aftermarket Wire Removal 03
Now that my trunk lid stays up, I decided to tackle the aftermarket amp and stereo wires, including the giant power wire that is hanging loose under the car.
Old Rockford Fosgate amp coming out. It is non-functional, for unknown reasons. Takes me back to my car audio days in the 1990's!
Wiring job. Not a bad job, except for the ground run. Seriously? Three self-tappers? Why would you do this when there are several perfectly good ground points in the trunk that do not require drilling into the body?
Now I have three holes in the wheel well that will let moisture into the trunk. Any idea how to seal? Bondo? Silicone caulk? Plug weld aluminum? It will be painted over eventually.
Well look at that. Another ground terminal drilled into the body. This one wasn't even being used. I guess the crack stereo installer decided it wasn't good enough? Sigh.
Why would you do this to such a nice car?
Now that my trunk lid stays up, I decided to tackle the aftermarket amp and stereo wires, including the giant power wire that is hanging loose under the car.
Old Rockford Fosgate amp coming out. It is non-functional, for unknown reasons. Takes me back to my car audio days in the 1990's!
Wiring job. Not a bad job, except for the ground run. Seriously? Three self-tappers? Why would you do this when there are several perfectly good ground points in the trunk that do not require drilling into the body?
Now I have three holes in the wheel well that will let moisture into the trunk. Any idea how to seal? Bondo? Silicone caulk? Plug weld aluminum? It will be painted over eventually.
Well look at that. Another ground terminal drilled into the body. This one wasn't even being used. I guess the crack stereo installer decided it wasn't good enough? Sigh.
Why would you do this to such a nice car?
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