Volk CE28N size 17/18 Advice Needed

texmorales · 29 March 2016

Need some advice after lots of thread searching about the sizing and offsets for Volk CE28N in 17/18. I think all the reading just caused my head to spin. Plus, I don't want to risk making a mistake and drop big $$$$ only to realize I screwed up.

Right now my NSX is sitting on the stock springs with Bilstein shocks on the lower perch with stock fenders and liners installed. I also don't want to deal with any tire rubbing issues at full lock. I would like to eventually do a BBK so want to buy sizes to future proof my wheel purchase. From what I gather the safe choices for tires range from:
215-225/40-17
265-275/35-18

From what I read 17x8 +38 and 18x9.5 +30 is flush for these particular wheels?

Current sizing for new purchase CE28N are:
17x8 +33 or +44
18x9.5 +15 or +28 or +40

So if bought new based on available options that would seem I need to pick +44F and +40R to have plenty of clearance and then push the wheels back out using spacers?

I know you can pick up discontinued sizing and I am searching online right now for used wheels. The closest I could come up with right now for CE28Ns are:
17x8 +33
18x9.5 +40
Seems like the front are too flush? The rear seem good. Or would this set be ok?

Also, if anyone is looking to sell a set of CE28N then let me know, I will gladly buy a set that is known to fit without issue in 17/18.

Stephen@NCAutoUSA · 29 March 2016

You really want to stick with 38-44 ce's for 8 inch wide fronts or there's I think 33 in a 7.5 would be fine too. Some report not having issues but honestly there's also an untold practice of removing fender liners that people will not disclose.

texmorales · 29 March 2016

Sduff@Composites said:
You really want to stick with 38-44 ce's for 8 inch wide fronts or there's I think 33 in a 7.5 would be fine too. Some report not having issues but honestly there's also an untold practice of removing fender liners that people will not disclose.

Thanks for the heads up on the fronts. I will double check to see if maybe the offset and width were a misprint from the ad online.

robbiedawg · 30 March 2016

i have (and love) the CE-28N's in 17x7.5 +43 and 18x9.5 +40. i chose these sizes and offsets primarily on angus' advice. he is one of the wheel experts on prime,and i also bought them from him. tires are 215/40-17 and 265/35-18.another primer said this would push the front wheel out by an inch,and the rears out by about 1 1/8".
i have absolutely no rubbing,and the oem fender liners have not been altered or removed. i am slightly lowered on the Tein S.Tech springs as my signature says

texmorales · 30 March 2016

robbiedawg said:
i have (and love) the CE-28N's in 17x7.5 +43 and 18x9.5 +40. i chose these sizes and offsets primarily on angus' advice. he is one of the wheel experts on prime,and i also bought them from him. tires are 214/40-17 and 265/35-18.another primer said this would push the front wheel out by an inch,and the rears out by about 1 1/8".
i have absolutely no rubbing,and the oem fender liners have not been altered or removed. i am slightly lowered on the Tein S.Tech springs as my signature says

Thanks for the info. Did you use any spacers to bring flush to your fenders? I ask because a few people have mentioned that I could go 17x8+33 and 18x9.5+28 which are available sizes you can actually still buy new and be spot on with no need for spacers and still clear BBK.

robbiedawg · 30 March 2016

i didn't install them,but am pretty sure there are no spacers

flexthatdx · 31 March 2016

I would say go with 17x8+33 and 18x9.5+28 for the CE28N. For the tires, go with 215/40-17 and 265/35-18.

jmarksnsx · 1 April 2016

jmarksnsx said:
After KW V3 & Volk CE28N install.

My 1997 after CE28's & KWV3's. I actually raised it up a bit after this photo. Volk's are 17x7.5+43 & 18x9.5+40. Tires are
215/40-17 and 255/35-18.

JohnWayne · 3 April 2016

jmarksnsx said:
My 1997 after CE28's & KWV3's. I actually raised it up a bit after this photo. Volk's are 17x7.5+43 & 18x9.5+40. Tires are
215/40-17 and 255/35-18.

Looking great! Any more photos?

jmarksnsx · 4 April 2016

JohnWayne said:
Looking great! Any more photos?

Thanks! I need to take some more!

vandale · 5 April 2016

texmorales · 8 April 2016

Thanks for all the feedback and help.

Just put the new wheels and tires on today.

When going from OEM to aftermarket. Do you need to go get the car alignment and stance redone? I am assuming yes.

Stephen@NCAutoUSA · 8 April 2016

Nope you should be fine.

What sizes and offsets did you end up going with along with size and brand tires?

texmorales · 8 April 2016

Sduff@Composites said:
Nope you should be fine.

What sizes and offsets did you end up going with along with size and brand tires?

Ok, well I can at least drive since it should be good. I still think I might get the alignment checked later as my front tire wear was a little worse on my front right OEM setup. Will double check and go with the least aggressive OEM setting as I do not track.

Found a set of used in great condition with tires already mounted and balanced. I ended up with:
CE28N
17x8+38
18x9.5+40
Yokohama S-drive
215/40-17
265/35-18

I think I will add a 10mm spacer to the rear to bring it more flush like the front. Would have ordered the rear with slightly more aggressive offset (+28) but another Prime member hit me up with a great deal on this set which was ready to go. Beats waiting 3 months for a new order and then still needing to get tires. This set included tires, caps and valves. Love the look of these wheels. Plus the white is classic and will work if I take the wrap off my car and reveal the black underneath.

Stephen@NCAutoUSA · 8 April 2016

You have the unicorn front size. Honestly too the rear is nice as well. You can always add a spacer if need be.

I forgot your car was wrapped. Makes me want to wrap my car orange as well.

JoseJA1979 · 8 April 2016

[MENTION=31071]texmorales[/MENTION], do you plan on lowering the car anymore? If so, you can get away with a bigger spacer in the rear. I am currently running an 18x10 +14 wheel (with a 25mm spacer) and it only rubs slightly. I'll be switching to a 15mm spacer and it will be perfect with a 265/35 tire.

texmorales · 8 April 2016

No plans to go any lower. Houston roads are just not a good place for being low.

I do think I will do a 10-12 mm spacer on the rear. My OEM setup had a 25mm spacer with integrated lugs on rear. So I guess now I will need to press out my lugs for longer ones to fit a new 10-12mm spacer. Unless you can get integrated lugs on that size spacer? Or will the OEM lugs be long enough to accommodate?

SoloNSX · 12 April 2016

You'll need longer studs to use anything above 5mm. 10mm is too thin to have integrated studs. 15mm will have integrated studs, just make sure your wheels will take a 15mm with the stock studs. The space in between the stud holes in your wheels need to be deep enough so the wheel sits flush on the spacer/hub.

texmorales · 12 April 2016

SoloNSX said:
You'll need longer studs to use anything above 5mm. 10mm is too thin to have integrated studs. 15mm will have integrated studs, just make sure your wheels will take a 15mm with the stock studs. The space in between the stud holes in your wheels need to be deep enough so the wheel sits flush on the spacer/hub.

Solo, I got with the guys at Evasive Motorsports (they are a vendor on Prime) and they said they had a hubcentric spacer made by Kics with integrated studs in size 11mm for the NSX rear. Going to give that a shot. Should get by end of week. The CE28N does have cavity space on the rear, so I am hoping it will clear the stock studs no problem. Will post and let people know how it works out.

kennyvb · 12 April 2016

How difficult is it to change out the studs?

jwmelvin · 12 April 2016

kennyvb said:
How difficult is it to change out the studs?

Super easy in front. Less so in back because of the axle nut, which can be tough to get off of some cars.

kennyvb · 12 April 2016

jwmelvin said:
Super easy in front. Less so in back because of the axle nut, which can be tough to get off of some cars.

Do you know (the length) of extended studs that you're able to slip-in without removing the hub? I'm reading about grinding the seat of the new stud and removing a sensor (ABS?) for better clearance.

jwmelvin · 12 April 2016

kennyvb said:
Do you know (the length) of extended studs that you're able to slip-in without removing the hub? I'm reading about grinding the seat of the new stud and removing a sensor (ABS?) for better clearance.

Sorry I don't. I had to grind the hub carrier a bit to get regular-length studs in. I could have also ground the stud flanges, which would have allowed some additional length. But my understanding is that most who install extended-length studs remove the hub. Since I did my rear studs, I removed my axle nuts to repack my CV joints, and it wasn't hard at all. For some, it is.

SoloNSX · 13 April 2016

texmorales said:
Solo, I got with the guys at Evasive Motorsports (they are a vendor on Prime) and they said they had a hubcentric spacer made by Kics with integrated studs in size 11mm for the NSX rear. Going to give that a shot. Should get by end of week. The CE28N does have cavity space on the rear, so I am hoping it will clear the stock studs no problem. Will post and let people know how it works out.

I would just make sure that when the wheels go on, they are fully clear of the studs. Even if the wheels have room, 11mm spacer isn't that much. Definitely don't want them touching the studs and screwing with your lug nut tq.

kennyvb said:
Do you know (the length) of extended studs that you're able to slip-in without removing the hub? I'm reading about grinding the seat of the new stud and removing a sensor (ABS?) for better clearance.

I put 10mm spacers with extended studs on the rear. I tried doing it with the hubs on the car, but even grinding down a part of the hub, there was no way the stock studs had enough space to back out. So forget trying to get an even longer stud through.

I had to take the hubs off and even then the stock studs barely came out. A couple of studs had thread damage when getting them out. To get the new ones in, I grinded down a small portion of the round backing of the stud flat, so it could easily slide past the hub assembly and through the hole without damaging the thread.

Seems some have been able to do this work with it on the car, but not sure if different years have slightly different hub assemblies.

texmorales · 6 July 2016

Finally got around to taking photos of the 11mm integrated lug spacers I picked up from Evasive Motorsports for the rear wheels. Now I am happy with where the front and rear wheels no sit flush with fender.

Volk CE28N size 17/18 Advice Needed

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