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NSX2S2K - S2000 Instrument Cluster Conversion Kit

BATMANs said:
You can count me in for shift light. One that is bright enough to be noticed with speed and power is coming up fast on me and I need it to be noticed in my peripheral vision.

I'm hoping that this won't have any compatibility issues with the AEM ECU
Click to expand...

Great! I think the best approach is to design a solution based on the need, which is what you are describing. A shifting indication that is detectable in the periphery of the drivers vision and programmable to the individual driver reaction time. I too would be in for such a functionality. It's in the pipeline.

Concerning any compatibility issues, from my current understanding of things if any part/product is compatible with the original NSX instrument cluster, it's also compatible with the S2K instrument cluster and my kit. To be sure we need to test it, of course. Should be relatively straight forward for me to fix any discrepancies should they exist and in the unlikely event it's not fixable I'll buy the kit back.

Best regards,
 
Johan@SjoebergDP said:
Great! I think the best approach is to design a solution based on the need, which is what you are describing. A shifting indication that is detectable in the periphery of the drivers vision and programmable to the individual driver reaction time. I too would be in for such a functionality. It's in the pipeline.

Concerning any compatibility issues, from my current understanding of things if any part/product is compatible with the original NSX instrument cluster, it's also compatible with the S2K instrument cluster and my kit. To be sure we need to test it, of course. Should be relatively straight forward for me to fix any discrepancies should they exist and in the unlikely event it's not fixable I'll buy the kit back.

Best regards,
Click to expand...

Any chance of the kit damaging itself or the AEM ECU if they are incompatible? That's my biggest concern.
 
BATMANs said:
Any chance of the kit damaging itself or the AEM ECU if they are incompatible? That's my biggest concern.
Click to expand...
Should have no issues. Unless somehow you used the AEM ECU to overlay the signal going to your dash cluster in any way.

Any custom work that you do, i'm sure Johan won't know about it. A standard AEM install "shouldn't" affect the stock instrument cluster operations.

- - - Updated - - -

For example, I had heard that some AEM EMS install leaves the CEL light on permanently. Well, if it's on in your car now. It'll be on in Johan's S2k setup. Same if you disabled it.
 
RYU said:
Should have no issues. Unless somehow you used the AEM ECU to overlay the signal going to your dash cluster in any way.

Any custom work that you do, i'm sure Johan won't know about it. A standard AEM install "shouldn't" affect the stock instrument cluster operations.

- - - Updated - - -

For example, I had heard that some AEM EMS install leaves the CEL light on permanently. Well, if it's on in your car now. It'll be on in Johan's S2k setup. Same if you disabled it.
Click to expand...

I did have the gaugeArt installed.... wondering if that is going to be a problem.
 
These are good and important questions indeed. I don't think you have to worry to much though. This is my current understanding in more detail:

The input side of my converters is designed to be similar in many aspects to the NSX instrument cluster input side. Of course, anything is possible but I judge the probability for a catastrophic event to be very low during the normal product lifecycle. If you blow up my kit as a consequence of any compatibility issues rather than normal wear, I'll figure out what's wrong and get you a new corrected one for free, or get you a full refund. I consider such events to be part of the R&D budget. The electrical components of my converters have been specifically selected based on their automotive grading which means tighter manufacturing and performance tolerances and increased safety factor for failures. My converters are designed to provide thousands and thousands of running hours in the harsch electrical environment of a car. And should there be any failures leaving potentially dangerous short circuits, the fuses in your car would blow and potect your car from catching fire due to uncontrolled heat development. Most failures leave open circuits.

Any electronic system that gets designed for a vehicle and is not over-voltage protected and reverse-voltage protected is what I would consider a poor design. For instance, I have abused one of my developmental S2K clusters by short circuiting it, reversed polarity of wires, applied high voltage by accident in some cases etc. It's gone through some serious bashing and everything works perfectly. Quality stuff. Blown a couple of fuses in my car during development, that's all.

Just to clarify what wires are actually going from the ECU to the instrument cluster, I did some double checking of the NSX instrument cluster inputs (1991) and there are only three wires that goes directly to the ECU. The tacho signal, the speedo signal (indirectly via speed sensor) and the CEL.

The tacho input circuit in my converter is an over-voltage and over-current protected passive circuit, and is electrically insulated to all other sub-circuits. Any energy/signals going through this wire to my kit is generated by the ECU. The same goes for the speedo but the signal is generated by the speed sensor. The CEL is directly connected to the S2K instrument cluster and is electrically insulated to all other circuits in my converters and has the exact same design in the NSX- and the S2K instrument clusters.

If the tacho or speedo doesn't work with my kit and ANY other engine management systems the error resides not in my design but in the EMS, and in this case the original NSX tacho shouldn't work either. Same goes for speedo and the CEL. But for me to be absolutely sure and tell all customers that there are no compatibility or safety issues with standalone's, rather than say there shouldn't, I would have to test it.

Best regards,
 
I really appreciate you backing your product to the point of refund if things kaboom.

this is what I have:

https://www.scienceofspeed.com/index.php/gaugeart-video-gauge-adapter.html

"Two gaugeART Serial Video Gauge Adapters are available for Serial or CAN Bus ECUs. Older AEM EMS Series 1 (part numbers 30-1001 and 30-1042) use gaugeART Serial and AEM EMS Series 2 may use either the Serial or CAN Bus gaugeART (CAN bus offers slightly faster screen display)."

lemme know if this my be a potential issue if it's connected to the AEM ECU.
 
BATMANs said:
I really appreciate you backing your product to the point of refund if things kaboom.

this is what I have:

https://www.scienceofspeed.com/index.php/gaugeart-video-gauge-adapter.html

"Two gaugeART Serial Video Gauge Adapters are available for Serial or CAN Bus ECUs. Older AEM EMS Series 1 (part numbers 30-1001 and 30-1042) use gaugeART Serial and AEM EMS Series 2 may use either the Serial or CAN Bus gaugeART (CAN bus offers slightly faster screen display)."

lemme know if this my be a potential issue if it's connected to the AEM ECU.
Click to expand...

From my part my greatest concern with my ambitions is to have completely satisfied customers. It would be morally degenerating for myself to take peoples hard earned money and leave them with something that doesn't work or doesn't perform to the expectations. I would consider that to be a failure of what I try to accomplish with my vendor ambitions and my service to the role-model community that exist around the NSX and these forums. With that said, I'd rather sell 10 units of something, make less or no money, that fulfills these criteria than to sell 100 units that does not while earning a buck or two.

I've looked up the interfaces of the gaugeART and it is highly unlikely this will be interfering in any matter. The gaugeART connects to the AEM ECU via interfaces and wires that has nothing to do with my kit. If the combination of AEM EMS and gaugeART messes with the input of my kit, it should mess with the input of the stock NSX instrument cluster too. The ECU simply output data to the gaugeART via serial or CAN the readings it takes from sensors in the car or from output generated by itself. This communication circuit is completely separated from the communication between the ECU and the instrument cluster.

But we will have to test things to make sure, as before. Everything works in theory but it is no chance that I am currently at revision 8 and 9 of my circuit boards and currently developing revision 9 and 10, respectively (not implying that I am incompetent, just that there are always unexpected challenges lurking everywhere).

Best regards,
 
Excuse my ignorance but how could gaugeart adapter mess anything related to this kit? Gaugeart is just separate signal consumer as far as aem brain is concerned. The interface of this kit is oem compatible. Just like aem brain you have. Look at gaugeart like an appendix which has nothing to do with what's being send to oem instrument panel.
 
solidol said:
Excuse my ignorance but how could gaugeart adapter mess anything related to this kit? Gaugeart is just separate signal consumer as far as aem brain is concerned. The interface of this kit is oem compatible. Just like aem brain you have. Look at gaugeart like an appendix which has nothing to do with what's being send to oem instrument panel.
Click to expand...

I don't know - hence why I'm asking....... Electronics is not my area of expertise.
 
Just to give everyne an update on what's going on: I'm working with the first 3 customers, gathering feedback on all aspects of my product and this swap just to catch any possible and unexpected hurdles or bugs. I'm already developing a new revision of the product that will incorporate some added features. Once this process is all done, I'll be releasing the first batch of kits once assembled.

Best regards,
 
Almost done. I'll find time to install it and take the final pics soon.

attachment.php
 

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This is the most professionally done thing I have seen on prime. From the item to the instructional videos to the options to the pricing. Wow....
 
JRZ said:
Almost done. I'll find time to install it and take the final pics soon.
Click to expand...

Looking good JRZ, did you do the cutting and filing of the cluster housing and front plate/visor? Is the spacing between the cluster and trim plate acceptable? Without cutting it would be a gap of around 2 mm.

TURBO2GO said:
This is the most professionally done thing I have seen on prime. From the item to the instructional videos to the options to the pricing. Wow....
Click to expand...

Thank you TURBO2GO, I'm glad for your comment as this is what I'm trying to do. Swapping the instrument cluster changes the nature of the driving experience of the car and one of the important channels for information flow. For the NSX, which is quite renowned for its highly appreciated characteristics, this is an important thing and I consider any such delicate change in the experience must be driven off a professional solution that lives up to the engineering standards of this car. With this product I'm trying to reach that goal.

Best regards,
 
Johan@SjoebergDP said:
Looking good JRZ, did you do the cutting and filing of the cluster housing and front plate/visor? Is the spacing between the cluster and trim plate acceptable? Without cutting it would be a gap of around 2 mm.
Johan@SjoebergDP said:
I trimmed as the video directed. Probably trimmed more than required. Fitment is perfectly fine. I have to disassemble the visor as I forgot that I need to calibrate the speedo and fuel beforehand. Probably need you to PM me more detailed instructions on how to do the speedo step by step. I have a Speed Healer that recommended to compare at 60 mph. It was only accurate at that speed. Also the fuel adjustment seemed to have a stop point when I was trying to dial it up. Seemed like it went up 2 bars and hit a stopping point. I can turn harder but, wanted to ask before I do something wrong. It'll probably be another week before the weather clears to go out for a drive to calibrate. Thanks Johan.
Click to expand...
Johan@SjoebergDP said:
RYU said:
Thanks for posting a pic! Looks great. You helped me decide which bezel to go with :)
Click to expand...

Glad to be your guinea pig RYU.
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I've been using my Garmin as a speedo for months ;). I have a Speed Healer installed that never worked right. I'll be uninstalling that to see how Johan's work instead.
 
The default setting (3900) is the stock NSX tire size. Unless you are running a severely oversized/undersized rear tire, I don't think a calibration is necessary. I have yet to take my car out for a spin due to the weather.
 
I used my GPS in my cell phone for calibration. Remember that the calibration will only be as accurate as your reference meter so the ideal case would be a calibrated rolling road device or similar, however I consider that to be overkill for this purpose. If you are doing the speedo calibration using a cell phone or any other GPS unit, have a friend in the car that can help you out with taking notes. That way you can focus on your driving and keeping the car at a constant speed. Try to take the readings at "higher" speeds, it will be more accurate. Small errors may not be detected when going "slow". I did mine at around 75 mph.

The factory setting (3900) is actually ideal for my own NSX which has a US gearbox with stock final drive and 20 inch rear wheels. Without calibrating the speedometer, I had about a 20 % error in my speed indication with my original NSX speedometer, showing a consistently slower speed. My setup can be regarded as a "worst case", meaning that the factory setting should give you a higher speed indication than what you are going assuming you have smaller diameter wheels than I. A safety margin for everyone so that no one would risk unvoluntary speeding. To calculate a new setting based on your readings, use this formula:

attachment.php

Example: say you have a "true" speed as indicated by your GPS unit of 50 mph, but your speedometer is saying 55 mph and your current calibration factor is 3900. Divide 50 by 55 and multiply the result with 3900. The new calibration factor would then be 3545. Go out for a test run to confirm, redo if not within acceptable accuracy. The allowed range of settings is 3000-9999.

For the manual fuel calibration, compare your reading in the S2K instrument cluster with the one in your original one. Procedure: Turn ignition on and note the fuel reading. Turn ignition off and turn the calibration knob clockwise if you need to increase your reading, and counter-clockwise to reduce your reading. (Important to turn the ignition off, the result of your adjustment won't be immediately shown if the instrument cluster is powered, the fuel meter is purposefully very slow as you don't want it to bounce around when your fuel is splashing around in your fuel tank) Turn the ignition on again. The fuel meter adjusts it's reading immediately. Repeat until you have a satisfactory result. Note: Make only small adjustments first so not to overshoot the target, it can be very sensitive. And also don't do the calibration with a completely empty or completely full tank. You might risk under- and overshooting the target without knowing it. I would say somewhere between 1/4 and 3/4 of a tank would be optimal.

Good luck!

Best regards,
 

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I have 18" and 19" wheels with a Type R 6 speed on 4.23 gears so not ideal at all. Thanks for the info Dablackgoku

dablackgoku1234 said:
The default setting (3900) is the stock NSX tire size. Unless you are running a severely oversized/undersized rear tire, I don't think a calibration is necessary. I have yet to take my car out for a spin due to the weather.
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- - - Updated - - -

Thanks for the detailed instructions Johan.
 
The parts were finally released from US Customs yesterday. It was stuck there for over a week.

- - - Updated - - -

Technically it was held up for 10 days haha! They must have thought it was a bomb or some illegal narcotics!

[TABLE="width: 895"]
<tbody>[TR]
[TD]Shipment Activity[/TD]
[TD="width: 200"]Location[/TD]
[TD="width: 100"]Date & Time[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="colspan: 3"]
[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Arrived at USPS Facility[/TD]
[TD]CITY OF INDUSTRY, CA 91715[/TD]
[TD]January 26, 2016 7:33 am[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Inbound Out of Customs[/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD]January 25, 2016 2:17 pm[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Inbound Into Customs[/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Processed Through Sort Facility[/TD]
[TD]ISC CHICAGO IL (USPS)[/TD]
[TD]January 15, 2016 11:59 pm[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Processed Through Sort Facility[/TD]
[TD]STOCKHOLM, SWEDEN[/TD]
[TD]January 15, 2016 4:28 am[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Origin Post is Preparing Shipment[/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Processed Through Sort Facility[/TD]
[TD]STOCKHOLM, SWEDEN[/TD]
[TD]January 15, 2016 3:26 am[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Acceptance[/TD]
[TD]SWEDEN[/TD]
[TD]January 14, 2016 4:09 pm[/TD]
[/TR]
</tbody>[/TABLE]
 

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