No problem nimdivino, I appreciate your enthusiasm.
I contacted Quaife, the man I need to speak with is on a working holiday for a week or so.
And yes, a quick rack is really great, what a difference it makes, nimdivino and others know that.
The question about it being reversible, the answer is yes. Completely reversible, the old rack and pinion can be put back in the original housing.
With regard to buying just the rack and pinion:
The reason I thought of you sending your rack unit to me to rebuild was because I didn’t think many people could rebuild the rack. I asked around and nobody seems to know how to do it, or have done it. Everybody says it should be easy, but nobody has actually done it. In my finding.
So, because I know how to do it, and is it relatively easy for me to do, I thought I could sell more racks by offering the trade service. It is a safety sensitive part so some people might want an experienced person to do it.
To make it easy for you guys that’s why I set up a delivery address in Los Angeles. Easier for delivering your old core to my place in Los Angeles too.
The bushing needs to be replaced too, the stock bushing in the NSX is very weak, it wears out very quickly and all the NSX racks I have looked at (in running cars too) need a new bush. It rattles sometimes too, you can feel it with your hand if you hold the tie rod ball. Sometimes you can actually hear it, it sounds like something is loose in the steering, but everything feels tight. That is the bushing, it is worn out. My car has 90,000miles, 140,000km, and it is really loose. The steering feels fine though, still very tight, but I hear the thing rattle sometimes on a rough road. It’s the bushing.
The bushing is a real bitch to get out without damaging the housing. That is why it is sometimes easier to just buy a new rack from Honda, about $700-$1000, if it rattles.
I made a special tool to pull the bushing out.
Then a replacement bush has to be found, can’t buy one from Honda. So I sourced new ones. It’s a special size (didn’t we know that…).
Then the bushing surface of the housing needs to be cleaned from the debris from the old bush, it is nylon and steel and is destroyed as it is pulled out, like I said, it is a bitch.
Then the new bush has to be pressed in. not too much or it will buckle (it is quite thin) and the tolerances change, it becomes too tight if it is pressed in too much.
Then a new clip needs to be clipped in.
Then the play has to be adjusted, not so hard to do really, but you have to know how to adjust it, and how it has to “feel” when it is right.
I know nimdivino knows how to do this, but how many others do?
If almost nobody knows how to do this, then I will sell only 2 or 3 racks and pinions, the rest will sit on the shelf then I am out thousands or dollars and a lot of time. Maybe Dali and SOS will buy some, but they will face the same risk.
I know that almost all NSX racks on the road today need a rebuild, so why not set up a service to do this, especially as I have done lots of racks before and have made the tools to do it right.
To cover my risks and make it interesting for me financially, I have to charge for the rack and pinion, the bushing work, the installation of the rack and pinion into the rack housing, the packing, delivery, customs (easier to sell things that way) , the time of my designing it (Quaife is a professional engineering company, they don’t fart around. They expect me to know what I what, then they make it. If it is wrong, tough luck for me, they still need to get paid).
And very importantly, I need to ensure a very high quality of the product so one doesn't break. None of these racks are allowed to be defective. Every rack I deliver must be perfect. It is a safety item, the steering. It’s not like an exhaust pipe that can break and the car gets parked on the side of the road.
Quaife has been machining racks for thousands and thousands of cars and racing cars and I know what to look for when building a rack, I have 30 years racing car experience, especially on the building and designing side. Luckily it is not a high risk, the rack and pinion are fairly simple, they never break, but hey, I still need to 100% guarantee it.
And down-time will only be a couple of hours. That alone is worth a few hundred dollars. I can imagine people taking their rack out, stripping it down and leaving it for months like that because they run into problems rebuilding it. And that is not good for me trying to sell my stock and recoup my investment. So I think it is better if I rebuild it for you.
You would receive my complete steering rack unit with UPS (shipping and customs already paid for), take yours out of the car (3 bolts and 2 nuts) , and put my rack unit in the car. You are back on the road in 2 hours, anybody can do it. Then you send your old rack unit to Los Angeles and get the core charge back. The core charge is for the housing, the rack and pinion I will keep here in case someone wants it, or if you want I will send it to you, I can’t use it anyway.
As far as the price being high, it is because of all of the above and I have to order a minimum of 25 racks. That is a very low quantity for Quaife. So the price per rack is very high.
A Corolla or Sierra or Escort rack is a few hundred dollars, maybe not even $300. Because there are thousands made and sold.
How many NSX racks can I sell or can Quaife or Dali or SOS sell? 5? 20? 100? Peanuts.
Then there is Right Hand Drive, they are different with a totally new investment. And there are almost more people who have told me they want to buy a Right Hand Drive version than a LHD version! And I have not even spoken to anybody in Japan yet.
So it is by no means certain that I (or Quaife) can recoup the costs, let alone make a small profit...
And then we come to the US dollar. It has gone through the floor and what seems to be reasonable price for the rest of us, turns out to be really high for you in the US. I mean €100 for us used to be about US$100. But now €100 is $150.
So even though I will try to lower my price, the price may at first seem relatively high for you (until you drive your car with the new steering in, that is). But still lower than a set of headers that do almost nothing, and the new steering will give an immediate different great feeling and a big smile, unlike headers.
Not to mention being able to catch the snap-back oversteer in a slide so you won’t have to spend $10,000 in body repair.
I appreciate any comments about this. And suggestions. I don’t have long toes. :smile:
Peter