The rubber thingy on top of the clutch pedal disintegrated (brake one went years ago), and seems about impossible to get to? I am about ready to just jumper the switch permanently, but would like to put on the new plastic thingy if there is a way....? Has anyone got a trick?
Clutch pedal starter safety switch thingy--any easy way to replace?
- Thread starter Joe Gliksman
- Start date
I tried for a while and gave up. My body doesn't bend that way any more. I ended up jumping the switch until I could bring the car in for other service, as it was time for a timing belt, and had them change it while it was there.
Mine has been jumped for a couple years now. Since no one drives my car I don't need it. I automatically press the clutch anyway. Those are tough little buggers to change.
I have replaced them before and it's not too bad, but then again I may be a little more nimble/flexible then others (also willing to endure the pain of contorting myself, haha).
For the NSX, I approached it with the door all the way open and then slid myself (on my back) over the side sill area so I could manuever into the footwell area.
Don't forget to have a flashlight handy. From there it should be easy enough to see where to replace the rubber pad. Also, somehow snaked my arms/hands up into the pedal assembly area.
On other cars, I have reclined the driver seat as much as possible, then slid myself into the footwell from the seat (pretty much a reverse of the normal driving position, hahaha).
An alternative might to be reaching up into the area blind to feel for the hole where the rubber pad goes (shoud be easy to tell by the associated depressing switch that now isn't depressed). After finding the hole, I would imagine replacing it blind wouldn't be too difficult, but may take a few tries.
Side note, in the past for other cars (Civics and Integras) I have actually used a small bolt/nut combo to simulate the rubber pad before I actually replaced it with the correct part. The bolt/nut combo worked great for several years and unlike the rubber pads should never deteriorate and fall apart (leaving your battery dead in the case of the brake switch, argh).
For the NSX, I approached it with the door all the way open and then slid myself (on my back) over the side sill area so I could manuever into the footwell area.
Don't forget to have a flashlight handy. From there it should be easy enough to see where to replace the rubber pad. Also, somehow snaked my arms/hands up into the pedal assembly area.
On other cars, I have reclined the driver seat as much as possible, then slid myself into the footwell from the seat (pretty much a reverse of the normal driving position, hahaha).
An alternative might to be reaching up into the area blind to feel for the hole where the rubber pad goes (shoud be easy to tell by the associated depressing switch that now isn't depressed). After finding the hole, I would imagine replacing it blind wouldn't be too difficult, but may take a few tries.
Side note, in the past for other cars (Civics and Integras) I have actually used a small bolt/nut combo to simulate the rubber pad before I actually replaced it with the correct part. The bolt/nut combo worked great for several years and unlike the rubber pads should never deteriorate and fall apart (leaving your battery dead in the case of the brake switch, argh).
I guess there are no "tricks"? I will try once more, and maybe will just jumper the connector?
If I have significant work to do in the driver's footwell, I remove the driver's seat first. It's only held in with 4 bolts and is easy to remove. Then I can lay comfortably on the floor and get at the under dash area with much less suffering.
Gary
Gary
shawn110975
Suspended
go to home depot buy a small bolt and nut
install it........ it will NEVER fall out again like the rubber plastic crap Honda puts there for some reason.
install it........ it will NEVER fall out again like the rubber plastic crap Honda puts there for some reason.
Find someone with small hands, bribe with beer/pizza/sexual favors, profit.
Seriously, I thought I was going to dislocate my thumb at one point. I just got a package of cheap body clips from a parts store that I could pop int the hole without having to use more than a finger or two (all kinds of double-entendre there, I'm sorry).
Seriously, I thought I was going to dislocate my thumb at one point. I just got a package of cheap body clips from a parts store that I could pop int the hole without having to use more than a finger or two (all kinds of double-entendre there, I'm sorry).
OK - I've spent 35 minutes trying to reach the UPPER clutch plastic thingy but no luck (I've replaced the lower one with a nickel and super glue a long time ago).
Please offer instructions on 'Jumping' this switch. Of course, I can't start my car until this is done.
Please offer instructions on 'Jumping' this switch. Of course, I can't start my car until this is done.
It's been a while since I did mine, but seems like I pulled a connector off the switch clipped the two wires--stripped them and twisted them together. Warning and reminder, it will now start and jump if in gear when starting!
Gracias sir - it WAS as easy as that. Phew - so glad this happened in my garage and not a road trip!
Same happened to me yesterday at the dealership!!! Picked up the car and wouldn't start. They just jumpered it on the spot as they had the same issue and I was in a hurry.
Crazy! There has to be a reason they used (and still do apparently) this design. I'm no engineer - but just the solid pedal with no holes would depress the safety plungers vs. putting a hole in the metal and inserting a plastic button. I must find out the logic....
Maybe the plastic plunger on the switch was determined to be a risk--so the plastic thingy.........?
I believe this part is only for US, or maybe North America......
I believe this part is only for US, or maybe North America......
Old thread, I know, but...
I just did this while I was flushing/bleeding the brakes and clutch as maintenance issues. If you also do this while bleeding the systems, you can easily access the plug for each pedal while the pedal is depressed to the floor. My clutch plug was gone, but it was super easy to slice the brake plug off with the pedal in that position. Way easier to push the new plugs in too.
Also, the car was up on jack stands which made it way easier to get yourself into the footwell while kneeling on the floor.
I just did this while I was flushing/bleeding the brakes and clutch as maintenance issues. If you also do this while bleeding the systems, you can easily access the plug for each pedal while the pedal is depressed to the floor. My clutch plug was gone, but it was super easy to slice the brake plug off with the pedal in that position. Way easier to push the new plugs in too.
Also, the car was up on jack stands which made it way easier to get yourself into the footwell while kneeling on the floor.
Last edited:
Anyone remember the color of the "button"?
Thanks, I found some small pieces of blue plastic in the floorboard so that must be what it is.
It is not part of the switch. The switch is mounted in the assembly that supports the pedal. The miserable little plastic pad that contacts the switch and operates it is mounted on the pedal itself. The part # is 46505-SA5-000. They are a nudge over $3 each. Replacing the switch will not fix the problem if the pad is missing.
In this diagram, #25 is the clutch interlock switch and #32 (on the pedal) is the offending plastic pad. https://www.oemacuraparts.com/v-2000-acura-nsx--t--3-2l-v6-gas/chassis--pedal
I think if you purchase a complete new clutch pedal for $123 they include both pads - much cheaper to purchase just the little pad because clutch pedals don't really wear out.
In this diagram, #25 is the clutch interlock switch and #32 (on the pedal) is the offending plastic pad. https://www.oemacuraparts.com/v-2000-acura-nsx--t--3-2l-v6-gas/chassis--pedal
I think if you purchase a complete new clutch pedal for $123 they include both pads - much cheaper to purchase just the little pad because clutch pedals don't really wear out.
Similar threads
