DIY: Radar Detector Hardwire Installation into Acura NSX-T

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This is a Quick DIY for Hardwiring a Radar Detector Power Cord into your NSX's Accessory Port Location on the Driver's Footwell Fuse Box. The process takes about 15-20 minutes, and is pretty straight forward:

1. First, Check your Main Fuse Box in the Engine Bay to ensure the Accessory Ports have been activated, by inserting a fuse into Position #17:

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2. Next, Remove the Driver-Side Lower Kick Panel for Better Access to the Footwell Fuse Box, this is held in place by (2) Phillips Screws on the front, the rear is held in place by two plastic pins, covered in rubber bumpers:

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3. Disconnect the two plastic connectors and place the panel aside; don't lose the rubber pin bumpers (or it will rattle):

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4. Insert the Positive Cable end into Position C911, it's the 2nd connector out of the four. If your cable does not have a female spade connector you will need to crimp on one first, this position on your fuse panel provides power when the car is turned on, so it's ideal for accessories like a Radar Detector:

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5. The metal surrounding the fuse box can be used for the negative terminal on the cable, I like to use the existing trim screw to hold this in place, so no modification to the car is necessary.

First slide the negative terminal under the plastic:

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Ensure it's centered over the hole, and reinsert the trim screw:

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6. At this point it's a good idea to connect your radar detector, and turn on the car, to ensure your power connections are working. Next we're going to run the wire so it's hidden from view:

Remove the Driver-Side A-Pillar Garnish, and use a coat hanger or weighted string to run the wire up through the lower hole. The Pillar Garnish snaps into place, but be careful removing it:

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7. Remove the Driver-Side Visor:

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8. With the visor removed, you can pull the headliner down, to tuck your wire into place.

First, Determine how much wire you need exposed, then tie a double-knot into the wire:

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9. Next, Pull the headliner down, and tuck the hardwire into the gap. Make sure the knot is under the headliner:

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Connect the wire to your detector, and reinstall the panels. The headliner is secured by the visor, and the A-Pillar Garnish snaps back into place.

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I like to tuck the excess wire under the a-pillar garnish, where it's hidden from view:

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The finished product, Detector turns on and off with the car, and there are no visible wires:

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Thanks so much for posting this scorp. I was crawling around in there today trying to figure this out. Wasn't sure what to unscrew.
 
Thanks so much for this. It really helps for not only radar detectors, but other accessories as well.

To extend the thread beyond Valentine, has anyone used the Passport Direct connect Wire Smart Cord, and where did you mount the remote mute button?
https://www.escortradar.com/store/direct-wire-smartcord-red.html

thanks.
 
Thanks so much for this. It really helps for not only radar detectors, but other accessories as well.

Since the power supplied to each port is different (eg ACC, BATT, IGN, etc.) you can use them differently, for gauges, etc. as well.

They're really quite handy, there's something similar in the Honda S2000.
 
Scorp, what is that bracket that you are using for the V1? And the V1 is detachable from the bracket? Thanks.
 
How convenient! I'll be wiring up my radar detector this coming weekend. Thanks scorp!
 
To extend the thread beyond Valentine, has anyone used the Passport Direct connect Wire Smart Cord, and where did you mount the remote mute button?
https://www.escortradar.com/store/direct-wire-smartcord-red.html

thanks.

I have one and mounted it on the panel just below the ignition switch with velcro. But will be replacing it with Scorp's new cable since I have the radar detector on my mirror using Scrop's mirror mount, easier and safer to hit the mute buttom on the radar detector than reaching under the dash.
 
I have one and mounted it on the panel just below the ignition switch with velcro. But will be replacing it with Scorp's new cable since I have the radar detector on my mirror using Scrop's mirror mount, easier and safer to hit the mute buttom on the radar detector than reaching under the dash.

I was able to mount the remote mute switch just to the right if the ignition switch with some body work double face tape vertically to the centre console. Easily accessed and some what hidden at the same time. I am using the mirror mount as well, but the mute button still isn't easy enough to access on the detector its self.
 
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In theory this should work for installing a rearview mirror with integrated home link then right?
(edit: nevermind, just looked at a few on eBay and they attach to something else)
 
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Nice. Wish I had seen this before I paid the "NSX tax" for mine.

This is where I have my remote switch installed with Velcro. It's great to mute. Maybe an inch or 2 below would give you more space when turning your key but it's not really a big deal. I had not thought that part through during the install.

This works for now. If I ever step up to laser jammer then I would like to get one of those integrated rear view mirror setups but I think that process is at a much higher price point.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1367809623.509758.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1367809636.792160.jpg

Edit: That's my bluetooth mic hanging down there. Just need to reattach it with double sided tape.
 
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I tried installing today using the hardwire kit that comes with the V1. I could not get the positive cable to securely stay (step 4). Is it kinda of a pain to connect? Or am I doing something wrong.
 
Some time you need to slightly crimp the female spade a little so it would fit snugly. Other time you would need to enlarge the spade a little so it can slide over the male spade connector..
So what did you do? Did the hardwire came with a female spade connector already on it or did u have to crimp a new one?
Mine went in a little tight so I took a fkat screwdriver and enlarge the spade a little and then it went in snugly.
 
Some time you need to slightly crimp the female spade a little so it would fit snugly. Other time you would need to enlarge the spade a little so it can slide over the male spade connector..
So what did you do? Did the hardwire came with a female spade connector already on it or did u have to crimp a new one?
Mine went in a little tight so I took a fkat screwdriver and enlarge the spade a little and then it went in snugly.

Thanks for feedback. I had to crimp a new one. I will try to enlarge the space and see if I can get it on.
 
With all the snow we are having here, it is small jobs like this one that make the winter go faster. Thanks Scorp for posting.
 
Thanks for the writeup - the one issue I had was that there was no ground in the location you mentioned! Not sure why this was but I tested it six ways to Sunday and no ground. I ended up using the bolt on the fusebox itself...
 
^^^ thats pretty odd. You do have the hood latch release cover right? Like in the picture, the two verticle phillip screws holding the cover in place. I use the top one and it worked. Just have to back the screw out then slide the ground wire behind the plastic, then tighten the screw. Unless you are missing the latch cover then there's no screws there.
 
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