This broke my heart SANDY

I can read the first five letters of the VIN :)
I think you mean the first six characters. Since characters 4-6 tell that it's an NA1. And the sixth character is the one that distinguishes NA1 from NA2. :)

dohhhhhhhh:redface: its iether a 95-96
Not necessarily, unless you're seeing something I don't. Some NA1 cars with red roofs and popup headlights left the factory for all model years '95-01. (Not to mention owners who repainted the roofs of their '91-94 NA1 cars to match the body.)
 
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hmmm not me... but its up for auction now
here is the VIN JH4NA1281ST000665

the interior is shot. ugggh I will post some pics.

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So far we have only one casualty from the flood. cross fingers that this is the only one that died.
I wouldnt touch this car.

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after looking at all the pics from the auction its a terrible thing to see.
 
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Ken the car looks to be a t roof,if that vin is an na1 vin then it would have to be a 95-96.

Not necessarily, unless you're seeing something I don't. Some NA1 cars with red roofs and popup headlights left the factory for all model years '95-01. (Not to mention owners who repainted the roofs of their '91-94 NA1 cars to match the body.)[/QUOTE]
 
Not necessarily, unless you're seeing something I don't. Some NA1 cars with red roofs and popup headlights left the factory for all model years '95-01. (Not to mention owners who repainted the roofs of their '91-94 NA1 cars to match the body.)
Ken to my eye it looks to be a t roof..if so and the vin is a na1 vin then it would have to be a 95-96.
 
Ken the car looks to be a t roof,if that vin is an na1 vin then it would have to be a 95-96.
Not necessarily. Remember, all the automatics sold in '97-01 were NA1, so it could be a '97-01 also. (The automatics sold in '02-05 were also NA1 but didn't have the popup headlights.)

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hmmm not me... but its up for auction now
here is the VIN JH4NA1281ST000665
Just curious, how do you know that this is the same one shown in the photo in the OP?
 
here is the OP pic, the rear glass says Geico, and a big X etc. etc. and the second pic is the auction site look at the back glass same and its parked in Long Island auction lot
76BB6501-BE3A-4E2A-B0DD-DF8148D5014F-2234-000002309F0E13F0.jpg

10513193_3_I.jpg

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its the same car.
 
lol I always forget about those pesky autos......
 
any want to enter data into WIKI salvage list here are all the NSX at the auctions I am busy
JH4NA2167XT000022 yellow 1999 115,840 miles rear end destroyed
JH4NA1181ST000196 Black 1995 60,052 miles small front end collision def fixable I would buy this one, not sure why they totaled it with such little damage.
JH4NA1159MT002707 Silver 1991 77,332 miles rear end smashed pretty bad but fixable
JH4NA1153MT002380 Black 1991 51,297 miles rear end smashed fixable but pretty bad.
JH4NA115XMT002716 Black 1991 131,305 miles complete fire damage, worse than my 2004 had this car is done. interior is gone.
JH4NA1154MT000301 Red 1991 miles unknown interior fire completely burned body and engien look fine. only asking 7K wow might be worth it if you can get a complete interior
 
Guys another victim of Sandy, I hope there are no more

JH4NA1158PT000564 red 1993 55,326 Miles at time of death. sitting at an auction site in Long Island
 
I was already looking at it. if it comes up for auction I will get it.

but man am I sick Of red cars have one being delivered monday.

cant I get a LBBP soon LOL

I will save any NSX i get my hands on.

try and keep the prices on an even playing field :wink:

any NSX can be fixed

but saltwater man I dont know
Didnt JOE in the panhandle get one with saltwater damage? the one he wrapped the whole car in BLUE CF wrap?
that engine was toast

Let me know (off line) if your shop gets full and you find a decent one that meets my (front clip) needs.
Thanks,
Tom
 
bought it cheap now tring to flip it. LOL or he got it and found more issues than he though or wants to tackle.
someone buy it and I will fix it for ya. good as new. I have enough parts to bring her back to life trust me.
 
Chances are that car was completely submerged under salt water. Every inch of wiring will need to be replaced to make it right. I have been replacing irrigation timers that got submerged in the storm, and within one week after the storm all the wires and terminal posts had corroded enough that I have been cutting back the wiring before hooking back up to new timers. With salt water damage, you may initially get everything to work after it dries, but within a few months the corrosion issues will start to take place.
 
Flood cars are a no no. They are a temping poison. It's not the aluminum that's the problem. It's every wire, union, connector, module, ground and on and on.

These cars are headaches and never get sorted out well enough to be trouble free.
They work for a while and then they break, and break, and break.
 
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Flood cars are a no no. They are a temping poison. It's not the aluminum that's the problem. It's every wire, union, connector, module, ground and on and on.

These cars are headaches and never get sorted out well enough to be trouble free.
They work for a while and then they break, and break, and break.



this car was in a fire not a flood.
 
this car was in a fire not a flood.

I was not referring to a specific car, just flood cars.

Fire cars have a plethora of potential problems as well.
A few come right to the top;

1) Any metal body panel burned... discard it.

2) Wires, connectors burned, discard.

3) When connectors or wires burn and lose their insulation, shorts occur causing immediate and often catastrophic damage to the modules/ECU's that control said system.
Send power through a ground for just a moment and you can destroy any other module/ecu using the same ground source. If the damage done is not complete it may take awhile before the system loses it integrity and without warning fails later.

4) How the fire was extinguished, the method or materials used impact could catastrophically impact the relevant vehicle electronic or fluid systems.
 
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