I'm not turning this into a discussion thread. If you've done it and are quite happy please pm me. I've got a couple of questions. Thank you.
ABS delete.
- Thread starter davidf
- Start date
Hi,
i'm just waiting to receive an ABS killer kit and will install it ASAP, this until i get my 02+ ABS Conversion harness back so i can upgrade to the new system.
what are your concearns?
Nuno
i'm just waiting to receive an ABS killer kit and will install it ASAP, this until i get my 02+ ABS Conversion harness back so i can upgrade to the new system.
what are your concearns?
Nuno
I've halfway considered removing it completely. I know it's been done by a few with good results. While my minds not made up yet, I'm curious how big of a job it is and what is involved. I worry {with good reason} that it would damper any future sale of the car w/out ABS.
I'll give you my $0.02. When I was having issues with my 1998 ABS, I drove it both on the track and on the street. On hard braking with street tires the fronts will lock up (driver side showed more such tendency) - part of it was done to test the situation in emergencies. This was quite unsettling especially if your tires are old or have hardened over the years.
I was the first to upgrade a 1997+ to the newer ABS - with all the R&D hours by Shad to make it work for it needed and electrical piece/switch (long story). There is significant improvement over the old ABS; if your budget allows it I recommend it.
I was the first to upgrade a 1997+ to the newer ABS - with all the R&D hours by Shad to make it work for it needed and electrical piece/switch (long story). There is significant improvement over the old ABS; if your budget allows it I recommend it.
Hi,
well... i don't think it will be a big job... i see about 30m máx before the bleeding, if you have all the parts with you ("T"s and SS lines)...
1 - disconect all electrical plugs from the ABS assy (orange)
2 - unscrew all hard piping from the ABS assy (6 of them if i recall correctly)
3 - Remove the ABS assy from the car
then, depending on what killer kit you use, you will have different work.
As you now have the circuit all open, you can keep 2 diagonal circuits as OEM (recommended) or 2 one for the front and one for the rear.
You would need 2 "T"s as you have 2 outs from the Master Cylinder but have 4 hard pipes, one for each wheel.
After you connect everything, do a good bleed (or several) and there you go, no more ABS.
With the ABS out of the car, you can service it (using Warren kit) and store it ready to go back to the car anytime.
Nuno
well... i don't think it will be a big job... i see about 30m máx before the bleeding, if you have all the parts with you ("T"s and SS lines)...
1 - disconect all electrical plugs from the ABS assy (orange)
2 - unscrew all hard piping from the ABS assy (6 of them if i recall correctly)
3 - Remove the ABS assy from the car
then, depending on what killer kit you use, you will have different work.
As you now have the circuit all open, you can keep 2 diagonal circuits as OEM (recommended) or 2 one for the front and one for the rear.
You would need 2 "T"s as you have 2 outs from the Master Cylinder but have 4 hard pipes, one for each wheel.
After you connect everything, do a good bleed (or several) and there you go, no more ABS.
With the ABS out of the car, you can service it (using Warren kit) and store it ready to go back to the car anytime.
Nuno
Last edited:
Does Dali or any vendor offer ABS delete kit with all necassary hardware?
Hi,
Dali...the one i'm expecting is a Dali one, although i bought it from a Primer.
here is the link:
http://www.daliracing.com/v666-5/catalog/index_browse_part.cfm?focus=2059
Nuno
Dali...the one i'm expecting is a Dali one, although i bought it from a Primer.
here is the link:
http://www.daliracing.com/v666-5/catalog/index_browse_part.cfm?focus=2059
Nuno
Thanks for the link.^^^^^^^^
David I thought about doing this too. Saves 25 lbs iirc!
Thought about it, but opted to update to the 01+ system. It's significantly lighter, works better, and I don't flat-spot tires autocrossing/tracking the car by locking them up.
I think that's my old pics on the Dali website for the ABS delete kit. With my car basically apart for a total rebuild, I just finished my new setup.
New hardline for the front drivers side, all AN fittings, and a Russell proportioning valve for the rear circuit. The primary piston #1 is now for the front circuit.
As mentioned, OEM used a diagonal pattern for each MC piston. I retained that when I deleted the ABS initially. HOWEVER, Honda also assumed brake balance based on OEM weight distribution and suspension characteristics. I've lightened my car to about 2600 pounds (mostly in the rear), keeping track of all weight removed and where it came from (sadly, I even bagged and weighed the underbody coating from the wheel-wells as they were scrapped off). Also, I've changed spring rates, compression/rebound dampening profiles, and vehicle rake slightly. All of this changed the static weight distribution, and also the dynamic braking characteristics.
Recently, I redid my ABS delete system. I have a relatively new OEM MC and OEM brakes, so I didn't want to go to a full race setup with dual MC and a bias bar proportioning system. But I did want to put in a proportioning valve for fine adjustments to prevent rear lockup relative to the front (assuming that's what will happen with all of my changes when I get it back on the road).
If you do an ABS delete, make sure you test it out thoroughly on a private area so you are comfortable with the changed braking characteristics. Preferrably in a wide open area with no light poles or curbs, and a slick surface so you don't ruin your tires. It's certainly not a mod for most drivers abilities, and no matter how good you are, will decrease your ultimate braking performance. I just didn't want to spend $2500 for the upgraded system when I can already threshold brake and have had a lot of practice. My 1st-gen ABS system worked perfectly when I removed it.
Dave
Onto the pictures:
Closeups:
New hardline for the front drivers side, all AN fittings, and a Russell proportioning valve for the rear circuit. The primary piston #1 is now for the front circuit.
As mentioned, OEM used a diagonal pattern for each MC piston. I retained that when I deleted the ABS initially. HOWEVER, Honda also assumed brake balance based on OEM weight distribution and suspension characteristics. I've lightened my car to about 2600 pounds (mostly in the rear), keeping track of all weight removed and where it came from (sadly, I even bagged and weighed the underbody coating from the wheel-wells as they were scrapped off). Also, I've changed spring rates, compression/rebound dampening profiles, and vehicle rake slightly. All of this changed the static weight distribution, and also the dynamic braking characteristics.
Recently, I redid my ABS delete system. I have a relatively new OEM MC and OEM brakes, so I didn't want to go to a full race setup with dual MC and a bias bar proportioning system. But I did want to put in a proportioning valve for fine adjustments to prevent rear lockup relative to the front (assuming that's what will happen with all of my changes when I get it back on the road).
If you do an ABS delete, make sure you test it out thoroughly on a private area so you are comfortable with the changed braking characteristics. Preferrably in a wide open area with no light poles or curbs, and a slick surface so you don't ruin your tires. It's certainly not a mod for most drivers abilities, and no matter how good you are, will decrease your ultimate braking performance. I just didn't want to spend $2500 for the upgraded system when I can already threshold brake and have had a lot of practice. My 1st-gen ABS system worked perfectly when I removed it.
Dave
Onto the pictures:
Closeups:
I should probably qualify that most lock-up issues would come from autocross over track. You have plenty of time to modulate the pedal and you're hardly ever trying to turn at the same time on most tracks. Autocross gets crazy and ABS can really save tires.
That's a clean install Mac
That's a clean install Mac
Thanks. It's sad though how long it took me to do this :redface:
Dave
Dave
Dave,
your kit looks way better than the Dali one.... and more OEMish... was it a custom job, or did you get it elsewhere??
Nuno
your kit looks way better than the Dali one.... and more OEMish... was it a custom job, or did you get it elsewhere??
Nuno
Mac that is a very proffessional looking setup it looks very factory, for people that dont want to delete the ABS completely though the newer system is a no brainer it is way lighter less intrusive and quiet if your solenoids are sticking on the old unit.
One of the best things you can do to upgrade the car lighter, safer, better.
One of the best things you can do to upgrade the car lighter, safer, better.
Thanks for the kind words... I did the work, that's why it's seemingly taken forever.
I started with the Dali delete kit when this was my daily driver and I removed the ABS in a weekend. The Dali kit was easy to do with the two flexible lines off the MC, distribution block, included fittings, and bolting right up to the OEM double-flared fittings (with some hand bending required).
However, Tuan and GaryW posted some pictures and a writeup below that made me want to go back and clean up my layout to make it more professional looking. And I also wanted to add in the prop valve:
http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showthread.php?t=126100
http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showthread.php?t=128469&page=15
So, I started with Dali's kit and ended up buying most of the parts Tuan linked to. There were some extra fittings involved since I did a complete conversion from OEM 45-degree double-flared fittings to 37-degree 3AN fittings. I also had to cut the OEM front passenger hard line and put a 37-degree AN flare on it,and run a completely new front driver hard line... one end with the OEM double flare to go to the caliper, and the other end with a AN flare to go to my distribution block.
It took awhile to figure out which fittings to buy and where they went :smile:
That's why I wanted to put a few pictures up so others can get an idea of what's required!
I started with the Dali delete kit when this was my daily driver and I removed the ABS in a weekend. The Dali kit was easy to do with the two flexible lines off the MC, distribution block, included fittings, and bolting right up to the OEM double-flared fittings (with some hand bending required).
However, Tuan and GaryW posted some pictures and a writeup below that made me want to go back and clean up my layout to make it more professional looking. And I also wanted to add in the prop valve:
http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showthread.php?t=126100
http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showthread.php?t=128469&page=15
So, I started with Dali's kit and ended up buying most of the parts Tuan linked to. There were some extra fittings involved since I did a complete conversion from OEM 45-degree double-flared fittings to 37-degree 3AN fittings. I also had to cut the OEM front passenger hard line and put a 37-degree AN flare on it,and run a completely new front driver hard line... one end with the OEM double flare to go to the caliper, and the other end with a AN flare to go to my distribution block.
It took awhile to figure out which fittings to buy and where they went :smile:
That's why I wanted to put a few pictures up so others can get an idea of what's required!
The price of the upgrade kit is outrageous, and it still weighs less to just eliminate it completely... Just depends on your comfort level w having no ABS, and if safety inspections are an issue perhaps.
Hey fellas,
I installed an ABS killer kit and the braking is great. The only issue that I am having is the ABS light being on in the dash. How did you guys turn that warning light off?
I installed an ABS killer kit and the braking is great. The only issue that I am having is the ABS light being on in the dash. How did you guys turn that warning light off?
Take the light bulb out of the dash, that is what I did. Nothing else worked for me, I'm sure there is a way but it was the path of least resistance for me.
Gary
When I deleted my ABS and TCS, I removed the control modules behind the glove box and next to the engine computer too. You need to remove those and the wheel speed sensors to take full advantage of the weight loss.
That way you don't need to take the dash bulb out :biggrin:
Dave
That way you don't need to take the dash bulb out :biggrin:
Dave
Seriously, WTF??? I have stared at these pics endlessly. How is that compartment so clean? I am at a loss for words.I think that's my old pics on the Dali website for the ABS delete kit. With my car basically apart for a total rebuild, I just finished my new setup.
New hardline for the front drivers side, all AN fittings, and a Russell proportioning valve for the rear circuit. The primary piston #1 is now for the front circuit.
As mentioned, OEM used a diagonal pattern for each MC piston. I retained that when I deleted the ABS initially. HOWEVER, Honda also assumed brake balance based on OEM weight distribution and suspension characteristics. I've lightened my car to about 2600 pounds (mostly in the rear), keeping track of all weight removed and where it came from (sadly, I even bagged and weighed the underbody coating from the wheel-wells as they were scrapped off). Also, I've changed spring rates, compression/rebound dampening profiles, and vehicle rake slightly. All of this changed the static weight distribution, and also the dynamic braking characteristics.
Recently, I redid my ABS delete system. I have a relatively new OEM MC and OEM brakes, so I didn't want to go to a full race setup with dual MC and a bias bar proportioning system. But I did want to put in a proportioning valve for fine adjustments to prevent rear lockup relative to the front (assuming that's what will happen with all of my changes when I get it back on the road).
If you do an ABS delete, make sure you test it out thoroughly on a private area so you are comfortable with the changed braking characteristics. Preferrably in a wide open area with no light poles or curbs, and a slick surface so you don't ruin your tires. It's certainly not a mod for most drivers abilities, and no matter how good you are, will decrease your ultimate braking performance. I just didn't want to spend $2500 for the upgraded system when I can already threshold brake and have had a lot of practice. My 1st-gen ABS system worked perfectly when I removed it.
Dave
Onto the pictures:
Closeups:
Amazing!I can retake those pictures if you'd like with the flash on so it would show the dust :biggrin:
She's a '92 with 130k... I bought it bone stock about 8 years ago to be my daily driver... She even went through a Winter in New England and did great. So, for not having been stripped and cleaned for a repaint or something major like that, it's in good shape. Well, before I started taking it apart :wink:
Dave
She's a '92 with 130k... I bought it bone stock about 8 years ago to be my daily driver... She even went through a Winter in New England and did great. So, for not having been stripped and cleaned for a repaint or something major like that, it's in good shape. Well, before I started taking it apart :wink:
Dave
Sorry for bumping this old thread. Anyone know where to purchase a ABS Delete Kit other than Daliracing?
Did Dali stop selling these?
