Anyone give any advice on removing the Needles on the Gauge's?
Thanks
Thanks
Cluster needle removal
- Thread starter whrdnsx
- Start date
I first place some paper on the gauge dials to protect them, and pull the needle using 2 forks as levers/leverage placed in a 180o angle to be sure you pull it vertically
Are you going to paint them in yellow?
Are you going to paint them in yellow?
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Ok, thanks.
Do they come off easily using this method? any heat required?
I'm changing the gauge face, so need to remove the needles.
Do they come off easily using this method? any heat required?
I'm changing the gauge face, so need to remove the needles.
I first place some paper on the gauge dials to protect them, and pull the needle using 2 forks as levers/leverage placed in a 180o angle to be sure you pull it vertically
Are you going to paint them in yellow?
I'm dismantling the MPH cluster this weekend , You want me to test this theory ? Looks like they are just pressed on .
I'll practice on a non working gauge i have here first.
Whoops Too late :biggrin:
Easy Peasy , Just use a blade screwdriver and use the motor base as leverage, the shaft of the needle will come out of the motor, not the needle as it glued in by the looks. It take a little bit of force to first crack the seal but then pulls out quite easily .
I forgot to mention use 2 screwdrivers one each side so the force is vertical. Only pictured one screwdriver to take the pic .
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Already have It works fine. You have to have it in the car to get 0 centred again .
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Did you do the tachometer too? They are both working fine?
I'm not clear on this. You say you install the gauge and then press the needle/shaft assembly in by hand? If you get it in the ballpark it settles down to zero by itself and when powered up resets itself? Do you power them up then install the needle/shaft?
I have attempted this and have never had a problem getting the needle/shaft out but when I installed them back in the gauges they have never worked correctly. They would move but the information it showed was wrong. I've sent them out to a speedo shop and they never worked correctly either.
I'm not clear on this. You say you install the gauge and then press the needle/shaft assembly in by hand? If you get it in the ballpark it settles down to zero by itself and when powered up resets itself? Do you power them up then install the needle/shaft?
I have attempted this and have never had a problem getting the needle/shaft out but when I installed them back in the gauges they have never worked correctly. They would move but the information it showed was wrong. I've sent them out to a speedo shop and they never worked correctly either.
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Hi,
what concearns me doing this is to get the needles accurate after it's done.... once in my ITR speedo, i had an error of 50km/h after i removed the needle.... had to remove it again, and while the car was moving positioning the needle in the same speed as the GPS was indicating (150km/h) and then 0 error on speed.
Nuno
PS - no, i wasn't driving the car while placing the needle :tongue:
what concearns me doing this is to get the needles accurate after it's done.... once in my ITR speedo, i had an error of 50km/h after i removed the needle.... had to remove it again, and while the car was moving positioning the needle in the same speed as the GPS was indicating (150km/h) and then 0 error on speed.
Nuno
PS - no, i wasn't driving the car while placing the needle :tongue:
You are correct , it will need calibration afterwards, I will get a gps and have someone drive to 60 and set the needle, then fine tune with the pot. i will update you when i get around to doing this. I have only turned the car on and fitted at zero, and it seems to be ballpark, it won't be accuate at all yet though .
Trial and error thing really, I don't think its an exact science.
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Have you any updates on this? Is the gauge working for you ok?
I have done the needle removal in the past and have been successful, there is a very special way to doing this though and I use a few unique tools for the job; so I'm curious and I would be surprised, if your method of just pulling it straight out worked. if it did work, then your very VERY lucky lol
I have done the needle removal in the past and have been successful, there is a very special way to doing this though and I use a few unique tools for the job; so I'm curious and I would be surprised, if your method of just pulling it straight out worked. if it did work, then your very VERY lucky lol
No it is an exact science , yea you can play around and may get it accurate but will take some time. :wink:
The key word is calibrate , to read actual mph or manufacture mph,this is what i meant as exact science .
Most manu. calibrate their speedometer to read high which results in high odometer readings ,this % increases as tires wear,VSS is trans rpm dependent . Check out the Honda Odyssey case of Karen Vaughn & Mcquiston .Class action suit claimed odometers were of 2-4%,Honda increased warranty 5%, Vaughn gets 10k$,Mcquiston 1k$.In a fairness hearing Class counsel gets 9.8 million ,you gotta love these lawyers . :biggrin:
I just want to make sure I'm getting what people here are saying, correctly.
They pulled the needles and shaft completely out of the pot and when they re-insert them they just need minor adjustment using the adjusting screws on the back of the attenuator?
They are just off a few mph not flailing up and down way beyond the fine adjustments on the attenuator?
They drive down the street using a GPS or other method, to verify how far off the gauge is.(no small feat to get coorect)
Stop, pull the meter assembly back out of the the car. Turn the screw on the back of the pod, reinstall and repeat this process until they get it right on accurate?
For real?
I have gone through this with speedo shops, vendors here on Prime and while they may get a guage or two to work, two or more fail and can't be repaired.
There is a opportunity here if someone can do this reliably and with a gauge replacement guarantee if they fail.
They pulled the needles and shaft completely out of the pot and when they re-insert them they just need minor adjustment using the adjusting screws on the back of the attenuator?
They are just off a few mph not flailing up and down way beyond the fine adjustments on the attenuator?
They drive down the street using a GPS or other method, to verify how far off the gauge is.(no small feat to get coorect)
Stop, pull the meter assembly back out of the the car. Turn the screw on the back of the pod, reinstall and repeat this process until they get it right on accurate?
For real?
I have gone through this with speedo shops, vendors here on Prime and while they may get a guage or two to work, two or more fail and can't be repaired.
There is a opportunity here if someone can do this reliably and with a gauge replacement guarantee if they fail.
Please elaborate and share.
I'm with pbassjo on this one; there is very little record of successful attempts at redoing the nsx gauge cluster. If someone can actually do this repeatedly without failure, there is a small market of individuals out there waiting for your services. I'm in a bit of a state of disbelief actually.
Hey Joe , here we go again , oil filters ,cappy and peppers wedges LOL. As crazy as this sounds ,I use to advance mileage on cars (dont ask) ,our VSS sensors were magnetic pulse generators (as every other manu. used ) The VSS produce a frequency signal to a speedometer buffeting unit ,it converted the signal for the speedometer . I would use a freq. generator to drive the speedometer(and increase odometer) , what i notice was that with the key off the needle was not always centered at zero , this is on brand new cars . once i set the freq. the speedometers all read the same . I think what their claiming here is their replacing the needle where they think it should be and the adjusting the pot for correction. Just made sweet and hot (red) sausage wedges , hot is much better !!!
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I am working on a test bench for this to pulse the cluster with a function generator at the exact frequency for the appropriate speed, thus enabling me to calibrate on the bench and not this "in car" muck around.
I will be extracting the group of frequencies from a stock car, on a dyno with stock tyres ie factory tyres that I have. I will update in a few weeks, bit busy at the moment for this.
If anyone wants a calibrator, I'm working on it for the community :wink:
I will be extracting the group of frequencies from a stock car, on a dyno with stock tyres ie factory tyres that I have. I will update in a few weeks, bit busy at the moment for this.
If anyone wants a calibrator, I'm working on it for the community :wink:
this is pretty much what we did, we ran our product on a road dyno (we had 6 dynos) took freq. readings from the VSS sensor at 90 mph .duplicated it thru a freq. generator ,feed it to the speedometer and in a few nights we put 3k miles on the vehicle :wink:
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Was it an accurate outcome ?
Ok heres a bit more info.
The needle goes down through a white plastic casing which you can see parts off in the above pic by "sweetchuck", inside the casing is a small weighted/balanced magnet, this magnet sits inside a very VERY small circular track. The white casing is surrounded in copper wire, which again you can see in the above pic, this copper wire generates eddy current that allows the needle to sweep.
So what basically happens is, when the needle is pulled incorrectly, the magnet is pulled up out of its track, it stays risen until the needle is pulled all the way out, at which point, the magnet falls freely back to where its supposed to be, but its upon this motion that what usually happens is, the magnet looses its original position or misses that small track and the balanced end of the magnet, goes where ever it likes; this in 98% of cases renders the speedo useless.
I'm also convinced that the needle/magnet or copper binding looses some type of magnetic force, because on damaged ones I looked at, the needle never seems to move freely after someone pulled it incorrectly.
As mentioned I have some unique tools to do this job and have converted a few speedos with 100% success.
Heres a few pics of JDM gauges converted to dual display MPH/KMH and 200mph
This is the OEM NSX-R speedo gauge on my car, and I also converted that to the 200MPH gauge/
OEM JDM FACES
Euro speedo
UK Speedo cluster
The needle goes down through a white plastic casing which you can see parts off in the above pic by "sweetchuck", inside the casing is a small weighted/balanced magnet, this magnet sits inside a very VERY small circular track. The white casing is surrounded in copper wire, which again you can see in the above pic, this copper wire generates eddy current that allows the needle to sweep.
So what basically happens is, when the needle is pulled incorrectly, the magnet is pulled up out of its track, it stays risen until the needle is pulled all the way out, at which point, the magnet falls freely back to where its supposed to be, but its upon this motion that what usually happens is, the magnet looses its original position or misses that small track and the balanced end of the magnet, goes where ever it likes; this in 98% of cases renders the speedo useless.
I'm also convinced that the needle/magnet or copper binding looses some type of magnetic force, because on damaged ones I looked at, the needle never seems to move freely after someone pulled it incorrectly.
As mentioned I have some unique tools to do this job and have converted a few speedos with 100% success.
Heres a few pics of JDM gauges converted to dual display MPH/KMH and 200mph
This is the OEM NSX-R speedo gauge on my car, and I also converted that to the 200MPH gauge/
OEM JDM FACES
Euro speedo
UK Speedo cluster
