Nh-604p
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NSXCessive’s ’91 Project "Sliding Knife" Build:
- Thread starter NSXCessive
- Start date
After drying for a couple days brought it home to start the re-assembly process:
Installing base components, brake lines, coolant lines, electrical harnesses etc:
Yes I know I didn't paint the inside of the car, figured no point since the interior will cover everything up later.
Heater-Evaporator Unit cleaning, wow when I took this pic I already torn out a birdness worth of junk insideL
Re-installed dash frame, electrical, evap unit:
SOS Steering Rack bushing update, on inspection the OEM bushings were starting to crack not nearly as bad as others I've seen but still going bad either way dried out cracking:
Smaller ones don't quite press in all the way, but I'm sure once installed and tourqed down they will fit just fine:
After week#1 of assembly:
Installing base components, brake lines, coolant lines, electrical harnesses etc:
Yes I know I didn't paint the inside of the car, figured no point since the interior will cover everything up later.
Heater-Evaporator Unit cleaning, wow when I took this pic I already torn out a birdness worth of junk insideL
Re-installed dash frame, electrical, evap unit:
SOS Steering Rack bushing update, on inspection the OEM bushings were starting to crack not nearly as bad as others I've seen but still going bad either way dried out cracking:
Smaller ones don't quite press in all the way, but I'm sure once installed and tourqed down they will fit just fine:
After week#1 of assembly:
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I don't know why I was wondering if that was a tradmark of GT-Spec? I'll probably powdercoat them satin or flat black later.
I see you edited your post lol but Ding Ding Ding... we have a winner NH-604P- Magnum Grey Pearl :biggrin:
Put the wrong code the first time :tongue:
When I first heard of GT Spec, for my Mazdaspeed Protege, the bars were all orange. Fast forward a handful of years and the bars were all a nice blue, kind of like Laguna Blue. Now they are the weird color you get now. I think they just buy surplus paint when they run out and they just get whatever color is available.
Nice pics. Keep up the good work.
I don't plan on parting with it anytime soon still have tons of work to do. I've got about a month left on my 12mth deadline so I'm focusing on gettting certified for the road. I can tell you by the time i'm done it will be thousands of hours of work into her. I need a vacation soon :wink:
Yea not sure maybe its surplus paint they are using lol thanks man still going forward I've got a ton of pics trying to post the highlights as I go.
Some more progress...
Some more components installed a few major ones missing like ALB unit.
ALB Unit after some thought decided to tear down and rebuild. Mine had not been cycled in quite some time:
Ordered a seal & grease rebuild kit from Warren see http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showthread.php?t=162710
Let the tear down begin following the service manual & Warren's DIY guide seperate the modulator assy:
Removal of the hex screws, let me tell you how tough it was to remove these. You need the jaws of life to get them out. I used a 6mm-3/8's narrow socket and 2 ft breaker bar to crack them loose. Look at the containmiation under the plastic cover as well:
Solenoids removed, more gunk built up over the last 20yrs:
On to the valve side of the modulator, when I broke the caps lose a nasty milk coloured wet and crusty wet flakes out brake fluid came out. Why its so important to cycle the unit on a regular basis:
Crusty old brake fluid in each chamber:
Dirty & Crusty:
Start the cleaning process still dirty:
All cleaned up:
New seals & grease installed and re-assembly:
Tada... ready to be put back together:
Some more components installed a few major ones missing like ALB unit.
ALB Unit after some thought decided to tear down and rebuild. Mine had not been cycled in quite some time:
Ordered a seal & grease rebuild kit from Warren see http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showthread.php?t=162710
Let the tear down begin following the service manual & Warren's DIY guide seperate the modulator assy:
Removal of the hex screws, let me tell you how tough it was to remove these. You need the jaws of life to get them out. I used a 6mm-3/8's narrow socket and 2 ft breaker bar to crack them loose. Look at the containmiation under the plastic cover as well:
Solenoids removed, more gunk built up over the last 20yrs:
On to the valve side of the modulator, when I broke the caps lose a nasty milk coloured wet and crusty wet flakes out brake fluid came out. Why its so important to cycle the unit on a regular basis:
Crusty old brake fluid in each chamber:
Dirty & Crusty:
Start the cleaning process still dirty:
All cleaned up:
New seals & grease installed and re-assembly:
Tada... ready to be put back together:
This is the greatest thing I've ever seen........ more!
this is a great great build. other then gil's car yours will be the only nsx in north america in this color i believe.
no 02 conversion for this badboy?!?!
no 02 conversion for this badboy?!?!
Thanks... yes there will be more... at this point feels never ending. Soon as I clear one item there is a new one waiting.
Thanks man its been a lot of long days into wee hours of the morning working on it. I've been following Gil's build for the last few years amazing work he did and his car looks great. I always liked the colour & thought Honda would have brought it over. I think there are some others here as well with slight variations of the colour tinted slightly different in some cases.
Oh '02 conversion I've already got '00 with the conversion, I'm going to stick with the old school on this one. I originally wanted to do this as a '02 Sorcery widebody all parts sitting in storage already but since I'm pressed for time staying stock wideness & pop-ups... well unless I change my mind down the line later, you never know?... lol
Nice thread!!!
Had a moment to toss some more pics up...
Pedal Assy & Steering wheel column installed, great care must be taken with it there is a plastic sleeve near the end of the column so being careful not to break it. Common problem having a loose steering wheel column from grabbing the steering wheel to help get yourself in and out of the car most likely caused by breaking these delicate pieces of plastic. Honda should have put a grab handle on both sides just like the old Integras:
To add to replacing every coolant hose on the car, replaced coolant hoses took care to mark the orientation of the clamp in relation to the clocking of the pipe and hose. Get this wrong and I'll be fighting it under the car in the tunnel later.:
Fuse box and general wireharness routing:
Engine Bay routing electrical, hydraulics, brake booster vac, fuel lines etc:
Empty trunk... not for long:
Passed by the body shop, some parts primed up:
Misc parts freshly painted:
Valve covers back from powdercoating, true crinkle red. Id say a bit brighter than the true OEM Red compared my my '00.
How it looks after week 2:
Pedal Assy & Steering wheel column installed, great care must be taken with it there is a plastic sleeve near the end of the column so being careful not to break it. Common problem having a loose steering wheel column from grabbing the steering wheel to help get yourself in and out of the car most likely caused by breaking these delicate pieces of plastic. Honda should have put a grab handle on both sides just like the old Integras:
To add to replacing every coolant hose on the car, replaced coolant hoses took care to mark the orientation of the clamp in relation to the clocking of the pipe and hose. Get this wrong and I'll be fighting it under the car in the tunnel later.:
Fuse box and general wireharness routing:
Engine Bay routing electrical, hydraulics, brake booster vac, fuel lines etc:
Empty trunk... not for long:
Passed by the body shop, some parts primed up:
Misc parts freshly painted:
Valve covers back from powdercoating, true crinkle red. Id say a bit brighter than the true OEM Red compared my my '00.
How it looks after week 2:
update on this badboy?
looks phenomenal.
looks phenomenal.
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- Joined
- 2 June 2006
- Messages
- 769
Just curious, I am about to get my one car checked for frame straightness before I go all in(almost identical to the process you have done) and I am not to confident in my local frame shops. Almost all wanted it a rolling chassis and I could only find one with the laser alignment check. Do you know how much they needed to adjust yours? Any knowledge you picked up along the way?
Great thread!
Great thread!
Thanks I’ve got more to come soon. I did not check the chassis on a frame machine until after transporting it from CA, trust me took a big risk in doing so. Lucky for me and our wonderful community I got someone to go by and visually check it out before making the purchase. One thing I can't do is bodywork, so once here I had the car sent to a trusted bodyshop familiar with Aluminum repair to make the necessary repairs. I've known the owner for well +10years. He is very skilled he did all the paint work on my '02 conversion on my '00 NSX-T as well as many other cars for me over the years.
I suggest if you are serious about building and you have access to the chassis, and the owner will allow you have the frame & alignment of it checked out prior to you buying. That would be the way to go for sure, at least there is no seconding guessing the base your building on is solid and structurally secure. If it cannot be repaired or costs too much then maybe not worth doing? You got to weigh out your options. I also have access to my old car so parts car is handy for sure, but that is entirely based on what you are planning to build right?
I should also mention here in Ontario, Canada rules are stringent. Along with a Standard Certification, and e-test it will also be required to pass a Government structural inspection, OEM Alignment in spec, all within 12months of my import date. Which I should mention is getting closer... ok back to work now.
best of luck. !!!
ontario/canada super super strict. not to go too off topic but if the usa car has a rebuilt/salvage title; under a new cdn owner the title automatically becomes 'salvage' and cannot be driven on cdn roads until e-test, alignment and full structural inspection before the car is given a cdn REBUILT title and then can be licensed for cdn roads.
if the car's title or history states "salvage fire" or "salvage flood" the car will immediately be given a irreparable title in canada and will never ever be legally allowed to be driven on cdn roads, regardless of how well the fix/build was.
looking forward to seeing pictures of this beast back together.
ontario/canada super super strict. not to go too off topic but if the usa car has a rebuilt/salvage title; under a new cdn owner the title automatically becomes 'salvage' and cannot be driven on cdn roads until e-test, alignment and full structural inspection before the car is given a cdn REBUILT title and then can be licensed for cdn roads.
if the car's title or history states "salvage fire" or "salvage flood" the car will immediately be given a irreparable title in canada and will never ever be legally allowed to be driven on cdn roads, regardless of how well the fix/build was.
looking forward to seeing pictures of this beast back together.
I was assuming that Swift was from the US and thinking about doing this in the US, so those rules would be different State-State best bet is to check your local Jurisdiction on branding.
I did mention that above about the items that need to be met for "Salvage" to be licensed on Canadian roads. Yes very import not to miss the brand of the vehicle on import to Canada salvage flood, and fire are allowed when importing and would be branded parts only. So you could import that VIN(s) and use towards a build with Clean or Salvage title VIN. Also +15yrs vehicle is exempt from the RIV program but a Canadian can follow the rough guidelines from http://www.riv.ca/BeforeYouImport.aspx.
There is also a Wiki & Faq noted in the Canadian section on prime on how to import for anyone interested.
http://www.nsxprime.com/wiki/Importing
http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showthread.php?t=97873.
Be familar with the Vehicle branding program as well as CBSA, Transport Canada, and MTO guidelines and regulations all have to be met.
From RIV Website: http://www.riv.ca/VehicleBrandingHistory.aspx... "
1.Clear/Normal
A vehicle that has never been written off or declared as a total loss.
2.Salvage
A vehicle that has been written off or declared a total loss. It may be safely rebuilt and re-licensed provided it passes a structural integrity inspection administered through a provincial/territorial licensing body.
3.Rebuilt
A vehicle that was previously titled as “salvage” but has now been repaired and has passed a structural integrity inspection. Subject to a successful provincial/territorial safety inspection, these vehicles qualify for licensing.
4.Non-repairable
A vehicle that has sustained structural damage to the extent it cannot be rebuilt and safely put back on the road. Once designated as non-repairable, a vehicle can never be licensed in Canada, and can only be used for parts or scrap
"
Had a moment... here are some more updates:
After updating to the SOS LMA's a Valve Adjustment was on the menu. Note this style of tool probably only works if the Engine is out of the car. But I also have the SST tappet adjuster which is identical honda tool for if the engine is in the car. Motor looks pretty clean inside no oil sludging and I have not cleaned it at all I'm thinking I may not need to do a thing. So begins the 5hrs ordeal and after it was done I wish I had longer feeler gages:
Exhaust .007mm:
Intake .006mm:
All covers re-installed & torqued to spec:
Eveything sealed up, getting ready for its bath:
Carefully applied engine de-greaser and presure washed very carefully:
Replaced the rear upper valve cover, the plastic had the typical early model cars with the cam gear chewing into it. The new cover is revised part #, but still had to take great care getting to snap in place under the valve cover. Way easier to do with the motor out of the car. Results were good almost looks like a brand new motor again:
Let the outside motor and trans dry up over night, then moved on to the transmission. Cleaned out the transmission filter, did not look too bad had some metal and grit in there. Eveything looked completely normal, I forot to take a shot of the cover. Cover is held in with a 10mm bolt, and had to take some finesse to remove it cleanly with the 'O' ring with out snapping the cover in 1/2 taking it off. I'm pretty sure since '91 this filter was not cleaned by anyone:
Filter in its dirty state was tough to get a good pic with my cell phone:
All Cleaned up:
Moving along to the Prospeed RDX injector upgrade. Found some washers to make up the height difference of the RDX injectors. I believe now Prospeed includes spacers in the kit. Pretty straight forward install out with the old and in with the new:
Don't forget to take out the IAT and clean it, will help the motor run better and help you pass emissions testing. But lucky for me I did that already a few posts back:
Couple washers installed to make up the height difference:
Installing the chip into my ECU:
After all that... back into the hole you go :wink:
And back on all 4's again she is starting to look like a car again:
After updating to the SOS LMA's a Valve Adjustment was on the menu. Note this style of tool probably only works if the Engine is out of the car. But I also have the SST tappet adjuster which is identical honda tool for if the engine is in the car. Motor looks pretty clean inside no oil sludging and I have not cleaned it at all I'm thinking I may not need to do a thing. So begins the 5hrs ordeal and after it was done I wish I had longer feeler gages:
Exhaust .007mm:
Intake .006mm:
All covers re-installed & torqued to spec:
Eveything sealed up, getting ready for its bath:
Carefully applied engine de-greaser and presure washed very carefully:
Replaced the rear upper valve cover, the plastic had the typical early model cars with the cam gear chewing into it. The new cover is revised part #, but still had to take great care getting to snap in place under the valve cover. Way easier to do with the motor out of the car. Results were good almost looks like a brand new motor again:
Let the outside motor and trans dry up over night, then moved on to the transmission. Cleaned out the transmission filter, did not look too bad had some metal and grit in there. Eveything looked completely normal, I forot to take a shot of the cover. Cover is held in with a 10mm bolt, and had to take some finesse to remove it cleanly with the 'O' ring with out snapping the cover in 1/2 taking it off. I'm pretty sure since '91 this filter was not cleaned by anyone:
Filter in its dirty state was tough to get a good pic with my cell phone:
All Cleaned up:
Moving along to the Prospeed RDX injector upgrade. Found some washers to make up the height difference of the RDX injectors. I believe now Prospeed includes spacers in the kit. Pretty straight forward install out with the old and in with the new:
Don't forget to take out the IAT and clean it, will help the motor run better and help you pass emissions testing. But lucky for me I did that already a few posts back:
Couple washers installed to make up the height difference:
Installing the chip into my ECU:
After all that... back into the hole you go :wink:
And back on all 4's again she is starting to look like a car again:
Meanwhile over at the bodyshop more prep work:
Come on, keep posting these picture, I know that you are further along than this with this project.
Bram
Bram
Excellent thread!
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