Think I had a snap-ring failure :(

M-P

Experienced Member
Joined
8 March 2009
Messages
388
Location
Raleigh, NC
Leaving the grocery store last night I hear a kind of pop noise and think anything of it as I probably just drove over something in the road that I didn't see. Get off the gas in 2nd gear and let the engine drag down. The shifter rocked a bit more than normal and the transmission let out a bit of a grinding noise. Did the same thing in 3rd gear. Luckily I was only .5 mile from my house so I coasted the rest of the way.

Now the shitty part. I bought this car almost 4 months ago and paid a premium to ensure myself that I didn't get a snap ring car. Well...I did get a snap ring car, but it was one that already had the failure and had the transmission replaced.

I guess I won't be getting those new wheels for my RX7 after all :mad:.
 
While it sounds like a snap- ring failure, it could also be something else within the tranny . To be sure, inspect the snap-ring visually. The inspection hole plug is located near the driver side axle and is flat with a 1/2" square indent in the middle of it. Use a 1/2" rachet or extension to unscrew the plug.Remove the driver-side wheel and jack the car way up on the driver side as you will lose a little tranny fluid( but not a lot) when you unscrew the plug. Once the plug is out you can shine a light into the hole and see the snap-ring ( or pieces of it). (Note: the tranny drain plug is in the same general vacinity and looks similar to the snap-ring inspection plug, but it has a smaller, 3/8" indent ).

Good luck,
 
While it sounds like a snap- ring failure, it could also be something else within the tranny . To be sure, inspect the snap-ring visually. The inspection hole plug is located near the driver side axle and is flat with a 1/2" square indent in the middle of it. Use a 1/2" rachet or extension to unscrew the plug.Remove the driver-side wheel and jack the car way up on the driver side as you will lose a little tranny fluid( but not a lot) when you unscrew the plug. Once the plug is out you can shine a light into the hole and see the snap-ring ( or pieces of it). (Note: the tranny drain plug is in the same general vacinity and looks similar to the snap-ring inspection plug, but it has a smaller, 3/8" indent ).

Good luck,

Thanks, I'll do that tomorrow.
 
When you take the inspection cover, this is what a healthy snap ring looks like. The two ends of the ring will show. If you move one end, the other end should follow. If not, the ring is broken inside the casing. You may see some gray stuff on the threads which is HondaBond sealant.

snapring1.jpg


snapring2.jpg
 
Failure confirmed. You can see the bits that I got from the snap ring below. Also, I tried to move the snap ring around with a screw driver but it didn't budge, just flexed in place. And as you can see, the snap ring is rotated past where it should be able to.

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Sorry to hear about the snap ring failure. How many miles do you have on the car?

If you still have the trans replacement record, maybe the dealer will good-will it.

Good luck.
 
Did'nt you say it's been repaired? May it'll fall under warranty. I'm curious to know who sold you the car claiming it was nonsnapring!:confused:
 
I don't think that I will be going with the short gears or R&P. Don't really have the extra cash and I didn't buy this car to modify...just drive.

I did purchase the car from a member on here, but it was the owner before him that had the transmission replaced for a suspected snap-ring failure. It says the clutch was replaced at the same time. Based on what I can gather, this happened originally at ~55k miles (5k miles before the last owner bought the car who drove the car ~4k miles in 3 years). I bought the car with 64k miles and it now has 71k miles.....so 16k miles ago the transmission and clutch were replaced.
 
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I don't think that I will be going with the short gears or R&P. Don't really have the extra cash and I didn't buy this car to modify...just drive.

I did purchase the car from a member on here, but it was the owner before him that had the transmission replaced for a suspected snap-ring failure. It says the clutch was replaced at the same time. Based on what I can gather, this happened originally at ~55k miles (5k miles before the last owner bought the car who drove the car ~4k miles in 3 years). I bought the car with 64k miles and it now has 71k miles.....so 16k miles ago the transmission and clutch were replaced.

hmm this is suspect... if the previous owner had the transmission replaced then you shouldn't be having this issue right?? Was the work done at a delaership? If so they should be paying for the repairs since it was supposedly already done!

And here I thought all snap ring failures have been fixed... I guess I was wrong!
 
This sends chills down my spine. My car is in snap ring range and has not been fixed. 130k miles and going. Best of luck with the repair. I wish it was going to be cheap. Hopefully you can find out who 'did' the original repair.
 
Me too. Mine is in range has hasn't been fixed either. 44K on it. The shifter has always felt really tight though. M-P, how did your shifter feel up until the snap ring let go. Was it tight or show any signs of play?
 
This sends chills down my spine. My car is in snap ring range and has not been fixed. 130k miles and going. Best of luck with the repair. I wish it was going to be cheap. Hopefully you can find out who 'did' the original repair.

I'm sure Acura will step up and fix it no cost if it goes.:biggrin:

As the problem is caused by manufacturing error, your gearbox could be well within the tolerance and is therefore no more prone to failure than the corrected housings.

A properly repaired snap ring gearbox (new housing) shouldn't fail after 20k miles.

Miner
 
Maybe the previous tranny was replace with a snap ring range tranny and it finally gave out.:confused: Also, a snap ring can fail on a non-snap ring range tranny, as any part can fail.

When my snap ring broke, I went with the SOS rebuilt & blueprinted with the shorties and 4.23 and enjoy the difference. Good luck
http://www.scienceofspeed.com/produ...SX/ScienceofSpeed/transmissions/custom_5-spd/

So how does this work with no down time if you are doing the core exchange?

I'm pretty sure I already have short gears so I would want to keep it...

so I would send them my transmission and they send me a new rebuilt one?

I want:

Full Rebuild
short gears
NSX-R R&P

Just not sure how that would work with my current short gears....... :confused:
 
So how does this work with no down time if you are doing the core exchange?

I'm pretty sure I already have short gears so I would want to keep it...

so I would send them my transmission and they send me a new rebuilt one?

I want:

Full Rebuild
short gears
NSX-R R&P

Just not sure how that would work with my current short gears....... :confused:

Give Chris at SOS a call...I'm sure they can work something out for you.
 
Has anyone ever heard of some place just replacing the broken snap ring without addressing the flaw that causes the failures?

Also, is there any documented driving behavior that tends to cause 'ring failure moreso that others? (you can imagine why I ask...)
 
Has anyone ever heard of some place just replacing the broken snap ring without addressing the flaw that causes the failures?

Also, is there any documented driving behavior that tends to cause 'ring failure moreso that others? (you can imagine why I ask...)

sup man ever get that exhaust put on? :tongue:
 
Has anyone ever heard of some place just replacing the broken snap ring without addressing the flaw that causes the failures?

Also, is there any documented driving behavior that tends to cause 'ring failure moreso that others? (you can imagine why I ask...)

Because the snap ring retains the countershaft in the gearbox, I would suspect that the more spirited the driving is (acceleration and downshifting), the higher the thrust loads are applied to the snap ring and greater chance the snap ring will fail. But that is purely speculation on my part.

Miner
 
Guys, just because your NSX is in the snap ring range doesn't mean that it's going to fail. If it lasted over 100K miles, it never had the problem as not every car in the snap ring range is affected. That's why there's a range of transmissions affected and not individual serial numbered ones.

Mark Basch (perhaps the most experienced and knowledgeable NSX mechanic in the country) posted the following information about the snap ring failure on the NSX email list years ago. I thought I'd post it here again. Bottom line as I see it from his write-up is this: (1) the preventive repair is often done wrong; (2) unless you’re opening up the tranny anyway, don’t bother with a preventive repair; (3) if your car is in the snap ring range and you DO experience any snap ring symptoms, don’t keep driving it, take it ASAP to a repair place and get it fixed, and it won’t cost any more than the preventive would have.

Here is Mark's explanation.

SNAP RINGS — THE FINAL (WE HOPE) CHAPTER
I can't believe I am still getting these phone calls and emails. I had another one from an out of state customer who had his snap ring replaced, the third such call in a month. Not the upper tranny case, just the snap ring. This person was sold a snap ring replacement just because he was in range. He had no problem, just that it was in range. But the terrible thing here, IMO, is that he did not get a new case. He was told the snap ring was made of brittle metal and that the new ones are not. This is pure, unadulterated BS. Let me explain one more time, what the issue is here. This info was explained to me very clearly on several occasions, by several different Acura factory employees, and one very smart AHM employee who is responsible for everything technical/service related, about the NSX. For the purpose of this writing, unless I say "IMO", it is pure fact. Also for the purpose of this writing, the word "tool" refers to a cutting "bit" used in a lathe or mill. Snap Ring Failure is referred to as "SRF."

First, the actual failure: The snap ring in question here is the one that holds the top countershaft top bearing in the upper section of the tranny case. It keeps the countershaft from moving under load changes, i.e. on/off the throttle. Without this snap ring, the shaft has approximatelhy six or seven mm's of movement. The snap ring fits into a groove machined into the very end of the upper tranny case. This groove is meant to have no more than .01 or .02 mm's of clearance around the snap ring. (Note: there is no spec for this clearance available - that number is based on measurements I have taken with new case - new ring). The clearance serves no purpose in the operation of the tranny, as there is no movement here during normal use. The clearance is needed to aid assembly. If it were any tighter, assembly would be difficult/impossible.

The actual cause of SRF: The snap ring groove in some cases, as described in the "affected vehicles" section of the service bulletin that describes this problem, was improperly cut. The groove that holds the snap ring is actually cut with two angles. The groove itself, and a small chamfer that is there to aid in assembly. Without this chamfer, it would be almost impossible for the snap ring to enter the groove. In order to cut these two angles, two "tools" were bolted together to cut the two angles with one pass. If you make a fist, and fully extend your middle and pointer fingers, you will see exactly what these two tools look like bolted together. (The actual size is much smaller- the groove is about one mm wide and two mm's deep. The chamfer is about .3 mm's wide. In the "bad" cases, the relative position of the two tools was not constant and the actual groove was cut too deep by the chamfer tool. With the groove too big, the snap ring was not fully supported and therefore under heavy loads the snap ring would actually shatter because it was not fully supported. In other words, since the snap ring only had the case in contact a fraction of its circumference, the (heavy) loads were distributed across a small portion of its surface, rather than fully supported. THIS is what causes the snap ring to fail.

Most important part: Why some affected case's fail, and some don't. IMO, the most important question is why some cases in the range fail and some don't. To understand this, you have to understand two things. First of all, the fix in production for this problem was to make the tool one piece instead of two. That eliminates the possibility of moving tools. Second, is the basic practice of all machinists and operators of automated mills and lathes, to spot check pieces as they are completed to make sure the tools are aligned properly. This spot check is performed every "X" number of finished cases. The actual number is unknown (to me), but for the purpose of this paper, we will use the number 25. It is probably a decent "guess" based on what we have seen but IT IS only a guess. The actual number is irrelevant for the purpose of understanding what has happened here. So, we have a machine operator who is watching this automated cutting machine make the grooves and chamfers in the NSX transmission cases he is making that day. Every 25 cases he stops the machine, grabs the last case it made, measures the grooves and chamfers he just made and compares these measurements to design spec. When he realizes that it is too big, he adjusts the tool accordingly and resumes making cases. After 25 more cases, he does this again and so on. If you are wondering, as I was when this was explained to me, why the cases were used knowing these grooves were too big it is probably because it was not known how big was too big until the snap rings started to fail. This is when the tool was switched to a one-piece tool.

So, now you have 100 cases made in any given run. Case number one is perfect. If you assume that the shifting of the tools happened in an even speed, then case number two was 1/25th of the total oversize, too big. Case number three was 2/25ths too big, case number four was 3/25ths too big, and so on. By the time case number 25 was checked, it is the worst of the batch (these are probably the ones that failed at 2-3000 miles). Now the tool is adjusted so case number 26 is PERFECT. Case number 27 is as bad as case number two. Case number 28 is as bad as case number three, and so on. So out of 100 cases, four are perfect. Four are perfect less 1/25th of the total oversize, four are 2/25ths of the total oversize and so on. This is the reason you have such an odd pattern of failures. This is why there are cars that have 90k miles and no failure despite being in range (case number one, 26, 51, 76, etc.) and cars that failed with 2000-3000 miles on them (case's numbers 25, 50, 75, etc).

The snap ring material has never changed. They are made exactly the same way and from the same material today as 10 years ago. It is one of Honda's most ironclad rules that if a part is changed, even the least detail, it gets a new part number. If this change is made to address a failure problem it gets a certain part number pre-fix, such as 06154. Without this changed number, it would be impossible to determine if a car was repaired with old or new part, therefore leading to multiple and unnecessary repairs. i.e. an NSX tranny has SRF and is repaired. Two years later the FTC rules that Honda must fix all NSX trannies with the potential to fail (wouldn't that be nice). IF they had a problem with the actual snap rings (which they didn't) and IF they had installed improved snap rings with the old number (which they hadn't), then they would have no way to know which car got improved parts and which didn't. Dates alone will not tell them this as dealers could have made a repair with parts out of stock as opposed to spec order parts. Remember, when it comes to numbers, a system is either ABSOLUTE or it is no system at all. Changing a part number for improved parts is the ONLY way to track which cars are updated and which are not and I suspect that recalls and other campaigns is the main reason for this ironclad rule.

Bottom line, a transmission that gets a new snap ring installed in an old case is the exact same tranny it was before and just as likely to fail. A snap ring and case costs no more to replace after a failure as it does before unless you drive a long time that way. Additional damage is not automatic. I wish I could give a number of miles you can drive before causing more damage but I can't. I can tell you I have taken apart trannies where the customer reports he drove it with the obvious signs of SRF for 300 or 400 miles, and there was no extra parts needed. I do not recommend replacing the case before a failure, unless you have the tranny apart anyway i.e. synchro replacement or short gear install. Definitely do it at this time if you are in range. You may save the money on the case initially, but if you have to overhaul it twice the only person who comes out ahead is the person charging you labor twice. I hope I have not caused more questions than I have answered. If I have for you, please email me for an explanation.

Happy Motoring,
Mark Basch
 
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